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High Sierra
June 6 2011, 09:14:57 AM
We got the 40K thread.

We got the Bloodbowl thread.

Welp, theres more wargames out there and I know you guys play some so this is what this here is for.


battle reports.
figure painting tips
modelling tips
conversions
model making tools and kit
stuff

High Sierra
June 6 2011, 09:43:19 AM
So.

Saturday was an all day gaming session at the club. We played Combat Zone which is a newer version of the old Killzone rules by Ground Zero Games. We possess a motley mix of the old Grenadier figures developed for Killzone and the newer sets sold by IM4 Miniatures.

Terrain was built by Ironman and Budgie Smuggler in 2008/9 to provide us a sci-fi type town/base for various games in 28mm scale.
One day I might post pics.

So. We've played this a few times now so the rules are straightforward. However we like to mix things up a bit. Sometimes its gangs v gangs, sometimes we throw some para-military/ police/ military etc. I even have some corporate bodyguard types from the old Grenadier range.

This time we decided to go with Zombies. But not the shuffling, braaaiiinnns type. Oh no. Think 28 Days Later type of Zombie. these guys are FAST, they are attracted to noise and they can smell you so being quiet won't help.


Objective: to get the generator going so that we can power up the radio and call for a helicopter to come get us (which might have enough seats to get us all out.... it might not). It is night time. visibility is 20cm.

Theres 5 gangs on the table of 3 figures each. the most advanced weapon is an assault rifle. Everyone else has a mix of shotguns, pistols, swords and clubs.

For my part, the gang set up on a roof with easily defended lines of sight. the mighty High Sierra immediately proved that he cannot be trusted with a tape measure when he started measuring stuff in inches, decided he could see a Zombie and let loose with the shotgun.
GM stepped in with a barely stifled giggle and reminded me that the measurements were in centimetres, I couldn't see what I was shooting at and I had just advertised my presence to every zombie on the table. great.

everyone else hunkered down a bit more and listened to what would become an epic running battle as I ran away screaming toward the centre of the table. Big Phil and the spotty teenager decided that they wanted to defend the same building and got together for a group hug. That worked fine until the spotty teenager saw a zombie and decided to let rip with his whole gang. This was fine by me since it let the pressure off and some of the Zombies stopped chasing me. It wasnt fine by Big Phil who, being a fairly silent chap, let loose a surprising amount of swearwords before adding his gangs firepower to that of spotty teenagers. In the meantime, Iron man and budgie smuggler had been alternating between staying quiet and headshotting zombies whenever they came into view. This all changed when the random roll put around 12 zombies right in front of budgie smugglers position.....

Seeing there were too many for him to cope with, Budgie smuggler immediately ran. Right over to where Ironman had been gloating about his impregnable position. Cue another small bout of swearing as Budgiesmugglers gang piled through the door and forgot to shut it behind them.

by this time my gang had spotted an innocently parked humvee. I know! thinks I. I shall hot wire the humvee and use it to run over zombies. Using my Elite gang member I rolled to hotwire. anything but a 1. I rolled a 1. muttering about shitty american technology my veteran gang member shoved him out of the way and hotwired the humvee. all aboard for funtimes.
The zombies kept coming, however now the humvee made shortwork of them as it rolled around the town, the crew shooting and making lots of noise and the zombies going squish beneath its wheels.

We all then remembered that the game actually had an objective.

So. Across town I roll while Big Phil and spotty teenager head for the radio shack. I roll up to the generator house just in time to see Zombies appear from all directions. Out get my Elite and Green gang members who manage to unlock the door and get through it. My veteran decided to stay in the humvee and turn it off by pulling the hotwire apart. Not on a roll of 1 you aren't sunshine. The GM started to shout 'beep! beep! beep!' at the top of his voice. That'll be the car alarm then. every zombie on the table headed in my direction. Everyone but me laughed.

In the meantime, Budgie smuggler and Ironman are heading across town about three steps ahead of the zombies who cant decide between munching them and heading in my direction to find out what the noise is. Big Phil and spotty teenager can't get in the radio shack because between them they dont appear to have a gang member who can open a door. Zombies everywhere.

High Sierra
June 6 2011, 09:43:38 AM
In the Generator house my Elite is pondering over the manual to the generator which appears to be in Slovak. or possibly Czech. Or it might be both. the Green is panicking quietly by the door because he can hear Zombies outside. The veteran is in the Humvee watching zombies climb all over it. At this point the GM politely enquires if I remembered to roll the windows up when my gang got out. argument ensues as to whether or not this particular model of humvee has controls for the rear windows within reach of the driver.
resolved by dice roll, the GM agrees that the windows are rolled up. I breath a sigh of relief at which point he says 'ah... but what about the sunroof?' dice roll. its open. bugger.

So my veteran reverses into a wall, squashing 2 zombies in the process and then heads off across the town again. Inthe meantime, the Elite gets the generator going and throws the switch. Someones left the lights on. the whole town is lit up. great! better visibility. but it means the zombies can see you too. wonderful. Budgie smuggler and ironman are in the open. Big Phil and spotty teenager get in to the radio shack finally but forget to shut the door and cant get the radio going.

More zombies!

So there we are. Ironman decides that hes carried budgie smuggler enough and piles his gang into a building for safety. My vet in the humvee pulls up beside Budgie Smuggler to save him. He duly piles in and winds the windows down. Big Phil and the spotty teenager discover the importance of closing doors behind you when 3 shuffle in to the radio shack at high speed. In the meantime my green gang member has decided that enough is enough, pulls out the molotov cocktail he had hidden in his pants and gets ready to throw it out of the door. Here comes the technical debate. Its a roller shutter door, however he can pull it up just enough to roll the molotov out into the crowd of zombie legs. but he cant light it. so he resolves to shoot it.

luckily i rolled a 6. So now I've got 2 gang members trapped in the generator house with a crowd of zombies out side who are now on fire. they will burn for 4 turns. so I decide to get my veteran back to help them out. This annoys budgie smuggler who wanted to go and hotwire another humvee for himself which is in the opposite direction. the debate ends when I threaten to turn around and drop him back where I found him (an area now over run by zombies).Instead, Budgiesmuggler opts to try and hotwire the truck we are close to so I drop him off. He forgets to shut one of the back doors as I drive off. Thats fine. I drive past a zombie, hit it and shut the door. This looks cool which everyone likes.

While this is happening, Big Phil and spotty teenager are pouring a veritable hail of lead in the direction of the open door. This doesnt help Big Phil who loses a gang member to a zombie that likes to hug and chew faces off. On the plus side, they did get the radio going, all they need to do is get out now. Not so easy since they cant get the other door open. The zombies chow down on another gang member before they get out.
Things begin to step up a pace as everyone now heads for the heli pad, except my vet who barges his way through the crowd of zombies outside the generator house and hits the horn to let the other two gang members know he's back. They pull open the door, run out and climb onto the back of the humvee. I'm about to pull away when the GM (with a bloody evil grin) reminds me that I just stopped the humvee in a puddle of burning fuel, that my gang members ran through said fuel and I'm surrounded by burning zombies.
cue a very large amount of dice rolling. In the end, we resolve that the humvee has caught fire, the Elite got onto the back of the vehicle ok, however the green is also on fire and only just manages to get into the back of the vehicle. theres also a couple of zombies hitching a ride too as the Vet stamps on the accelerator.
The green loses his grip, lands back in the burning fuel and dies horribly in screaming agony. The Elite, proving what a top guy he is cooly hangs on and blows away one of the zombies, leaving the other one for the moment. Luckily, the humvee isnt burning anywhere really important and so keeps going.

Across town, Budgie Smuggler and Ironman are approaching the Heli pad with victory in their eyes. I sense a dastardly plan forming between the two. Big Phil and Spotty teenager are conducting a wonderful fighting retreat towards the helipad, helping each other out now that they are down to two gang members each. And so the final turn approached with us all converging on the helipad. My elite did it again and chopped that hands off the last zombie hanging on to the humvee so that it fell off. The flames went out, and the humvee lasted just long enough to get within a short sprint of the pad. The rest of the town belongs to the zombies. and there are ALOT of them. All coming for the helipad now.

We all sit back after a damn fun day and wait for the chopper to come in. 'I don't know why you are relaxing' comments the GM, 'Nobody rolled to send the radio message'

Final turn saw Everyone shoot the two remaining members of Spotty Teenagers gang since it was their job to send the radio message. He did protest that it was Big Phil's fault too. However that day, Big Phil provided cake for the game. You don't shoot Big Phil when he provides cake - he makes good cake.

Zeppelin
June 6 2011, 10:25:33 AM
[spoiler:352db8iv]http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o4/KaiserHamster/IMG_0183.jpg[/spoiler:352db8iv]

My Flames of War Soviet Guards Heavy Tank Company, picture taken with a cellphone camera. 10x IS-2's with AA-SMG's and Tankrider SMG Teams, 4x Katyusha Rocket Launcherteams with extra crew and air support consiting of a squadron of IL-2 Sturmoviks - about 2000 points all finished.

Currently plotting a new project - Waffen SS "Das Reich" mechanised panzergrenadiers supported by a pair of Jagdpanthers and 8.8cm AT guns. Will give these guys winter camoflage and snow bases.

spiralJunkie
June 6 2011, 05:30:31 PM
http://img827.imageshack.us/img827/2281/folderbig.gifon the day that I finish my earthshaker Conversion, I will post it here in this thread

Kaianna
June 6 2011, 05:45:02 PM
Games that I currently play:

Warmachine/Hordes
Malifaux - if you've never heard of this, check it out at http://www.wyrd-games.net/ VERY AWESOME.
Flames of War
Heavy Gear Blitz - Just getting into this (now I can get them in the UK, welp) though been a fan of the setting for years, really superb game
Battletech
Signal Close Action - Napoleonic naval actions with models by the always awesome Rod Langton http://www.rodlangton.com/
Infinity - Brilliant small action sci-fi skirmish game, with beautiful miniatures http://www.infinitythegame.com/infinity/en/
Secrets of the Third Reich - World War 2. With Zombies. And Mechs.


Tbh, I'm totally done with GW games. All of the above are better :D

High Sierra
June 7 2011, 12:22:06 PM
jesus christ you actually manage to get a game out of close action? those rules are farking complicated.

also.... langton miniatures.... lolexpensive....



battletech redeems you my child. One day I may post pics of my Falcon Guard Touman.

Pacefalm
June 7 2011, 02:43:44 PM
[spoiler:3kurht99]
So.

Saturday was an all day gaming session at the club. We played Combat Zone which is a newer version of the old Killzone rules by Ground Zero Games. We possess a motley mix of the old Grenadier figures developed for Killzone and the newer sets sold by IM4 Miniatures.

Terrain was built by Ironman and Budgie Smuggler in 2008/9 to provide us a sci-fi type town/base for various games in 28mm scale.
One day I might post pics.

So. We've played this a few times now so the rules are straightforward. However we like to mix things up a bit. Sometimes its gangs v gangs, sometimes we throw some para-military/ police/ military etc. I even have some corporate bodyguard types from the old Grenadier range.

This time we decided to go with Zombies. But not the shuffling, braaaiiinnns type. Oh no. Think 28 Days Later type of Zombie. these guys are FAST, they are attracted to noise and they can smell you so being quiet won't help.


Objective: to get the generator going so that we can power up the radio and call for a helicopter to come get us (which might have enough seats to get us all out.... it might not). It is night time. visibility is 20cm.

Theres 5 gangs on the table of 3 figures each. the most advanced weapon is an assault rifle. Everyone else has a mix of shotguns, pistols, swords and clubs.

For my part, the gang set up on a roof with easily defended lines of sight. the mighty High Sierra immediately proved that he cannot be trusted with a tape measure when he started measuring stuff in inches, decided he could see a Zombie and let loose with the shotgun.
GM stepped in with a barely stifled giggle and reminded me that the measurements were in centimetres, I couldn't see what I was shooting at and I had just advertised my presence to every zombie on the table. great.

everyone else hunkered down a bit more and listened to what would become an epic running battle as I ran away screaming toward the centre of the table. Big Phil and the spotty teenager decided that they wanted to defend the same building and got together for a group hug. That worked fine until the spotty teenager saw a zombie and decided to let rip with his whole gang. This was fine by me since it let the pressure off and some of the Zombies stopped chasing me. It wasnt fine by Big Phil who, being a fairly silent chap, let loose a surprising amount of swearwords before adding his gangs firepower to that of spotty teenagers. In the meantime, Iron man and budgie smuggler had been alternating between staying quiet and headshotting zombies whenever they came into view. This all changed when the random roll put around 12 zombies right in front of budgie smugglers position.....

Seeing there were too many for him to cope with, Budgie smuggler immediately ran. Right over to where Ironman had been gloating about his impregnable position. Cue another small bout of swearing as Budgiesmugglers gang piled through the door and forgot to shut it behind them.

by this time my gang had spotted an innocently parked humvee. I know! thinks I. I shall hot wire the humvee and use it to run over zombies. Using my Elite gang member I rolled to hotwire. anything but a 1. I rolled a 1. muttering about shitty american technology my veteran gang member shoved him out of the way and hotwired the humvee. all aboard for funtimes.
The zombies kept coming, however now the humvee made shortwork of them as it rolled around the town, the crew shooting and making lots of noise and the zombies going squish beneath its wheels.

We all then remembered that the game actually had an objective.

So. Across town I roll while Big Phil and spotty teenager head for the radio shack. I roll up to the generator house just in time to see Zombies appear from all directions. Out get my Elite and Green gang members who manage to unlock the door and get through it. My veteran decided to stay in the humvee and turn it off by pulling the hotwire apart. Not on a roll of 1 you aren't sunshine. The GM started to shout 'beep! beep! beep!' at the top of his voice. That'll be the car alarm then. every zombie on the table headed in my direction. Everyone but me laughed.

In the meantime, Budgie smuggler and Ironman are heading across town about three steps ahead of the zombies who cant decide between munching them and heading in my direction to find out what the noise is. Big Phil and spotty teenager can't get in the radio shack because between them they dont appear to have a gang member who can open a door. Zombies everywhere.

In the Generator house my Elite is pondering over the manual to the generator which appears to be in Slovak. or possibly Czech. Or it might be both. the Green is panicking quietly by the door because he can hear Zombies outside. The veteran is in the Humvee watching zombies climb all over it. At this point the GM politely enquires if I remembered to roll the windows up when my gang got out. argument ensues as to whether or not this particular model of humvee has controls for the rear windows within reach of the driver.
resolved by dice roll, the GM agrees that the windows are rolled up. I breath a sigh of relief at which point he says 'ah... but what about the sunroof?' dice roll. its open. bugger.

So my veteran reverses into a wall, squashing 2 zombies in the process and then heads off across the town again. Inthe meantime, the Elite gets the generator going and throws the switch. Someones left the lights on. the whole town is lit up. great! better visibility. but it means the zombies can see you too. wonderful. Budgie smuggler and ironman are in the open. Big Phil and spotty teenager get in to the radio shack finally but forget to shut the door and cant get the radio going.

More zombies!

So there we are. Ironman decides that hes carried budgie smuggler enough and piles his gang into a building for safety. My vet in the humvee pulls up beside Budgie Smuggler to save him. He duly piles in and winds the windows down. Big Phil and the spotty teenager discover the importance of closing doors behind you when 3 shuffle in to the radio shack at high speed. In the meantime my green gang member has decided that enough is enough, pulls out the molotov cocktail he had hidden in his pants and gets ready to throw it out of the door. Here comes the technical debate. Its a roller shutter door, however he can pull it up just enough to roll the molotov out into the crowd of zombie legs. but he cant light it. so he resolves to shoot it.

luckily i rolled a 6. So now I've got 2 gang members trapped in the generator house with a crowd of zombies out side who are now on fire. they will burn for 4 turns. so I decide to get my veteran back to help them out. This annoys budgie smuggler who wanted to go and hotwire another humvee for himself which is in the opposite direction. the debate ends when I threaten to turn around and drop him back where I found him (an area now over run by zombies).Instead, Budgiesmuggler opts to try and hotwire the truck we are close to so I drop him off. He forgets to shut one of the back doors as I drive off. Thats fine. I drive past a zombie, hit it and shut the door. This looks cool which everyone likes.

While this is happening, Big Phil and spotty teenager are pouring a veritable hail of lead in the direction of the open door. This doesnt help Big Phil who loses a gang member to a zombie that likes to hug and chew faces off. On the plus side, they did get the radio going, all they need to do is get out now. Not so easy since they cant get the other door open. The zombies chow down on another gang member before they get out.
Things begin to step up a pace as everyone now heads for the heli pad, except my vet who barges his way through the crowd of zombies outside the generator house and hits the horn to let the other two gang members know he's back. They pull open the door, run out and climb onto the back of the humvee. I'm about to pull away when the GM (with a bloody evil grin) reminds me that I just stopped the humvee in a puddle of burning fuel, that my gang members ran through said fuel and I'm surrounded by burning zombies.
cue a very large amount of dice rolling. In the end, we resolve that the humvee has caught fire, the Elite got onto the back of the vehicle ok, however the green is also on fire and only just manages to get into the back of the vehicle. theres also a couple of zombies hitching a ride too as the Vet stamps on the accelerator.
The green loses his grip, lands back in the burning fuel and dies horribly in screaming agony. The Elite, proving what a top guy he is cooly hangs on and blows away one of the zombies, leaving the other one for the moment. Luckily, the humvee isnt burning anywhere really important and so keeps going.

Across town, Budgie Smuggler and Ironman are approaching the Heli pad with victory in their eyes. I sense a dastardly plan forming between the two. Big Phil and Spotty teenager are conducting a wonderful fighting retreat towards the helipad, helping each other out now that they are down to two gang members each. And so the final turn approached with us all converging on the helipad. My elite did it again and chopped that hands off the last zombie hanging on to the humvee so that it fell off. The flames went out, and the humvee lasted just long enough to get within a short sprint of the pad. The rest of the town belongs to the zombies. and there are ALOT of them. All coming for the helipad now.

We all sit back after a damn fun day and wait for the chopper to come in. 'I don't know why you are relaxing' comments the GM, 'Nobody rolled to send the radio message'

Final turn saw Everyone shoot the two remaining members of Spotty Teenagers gang since it was their job to send the radio message. He did protest that it was Big Phil's fault too. However that day, Big Phil provided cake for the game. You don't shoot Big Phil when he provides cake - he makes good cake.[/spoiler:3kurht99]
IDK the game but cool story bro, would read again.

Kaianna
June 7 2011, 05:33:59 PM
jesus christ you actually manage to get a game out of close action? those rules are farking complicated.

also.... langton miniatures.... lolexpensive....



battletech redeems you my child. One day I may post pics of my Falcon Guard Touman.

We use the quick play variant of Close action, because yeah...
We've also being playing the old "Wooden Ships and iron Men" Avalon Hill rules lately as a test, those are ace.
And yeah, Langton is pricey, but god DAMN those ships are epic.

High Sierra
June 11 2011, 08:10:11 AM
pics of WIP coming later today (I hope)

Kaianna
June 11 2011, 11:16:07 AM
This is my club, with SOME of the stuff we play....lots of people, so there tends to be quite a bit of variety:
http://www.wessexwyverns.org.uk/

High Sierra
June 12 2011, 03:30:47 PM
haha! close!

http://www.wessexwargamessociety.co.uk/

website is still a work in progress but we're probably the oldest club in the country atm - got started by Don Featherstone back in the '70's

High Sierra
June 19 2011, 09:39:50 AM
Finally got around to this.

Divers (http://s1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc433/High_Sierra1/Deep%20Sea%20Divers/)

Still ongoing, they have backpacks to wear plus some come with seperate weapons. I think they are Scheltrum Miniatures.
Scenery for the game is simple - we are raiding the local aquarium supplier!

crappy camera so some of them are a bit unfocussed which is annoying cos it looks fine on the camera screen.

High Sierra
June 20 2011, 04:17:17 PM
I'm alone. forever alone.


I thought there were more modelling/painting/wargaming nerds out there?

WHERE ARE YOU? Don't leave me alone in here! I can't survive in General Chat by myself!

Kaianna
June 20 2011, 05:30:23 PM
I am a massive nerd, and am in fact off for a couple of games of Warmachine any second. Which I shall win, as I am fucking epic at it.
:modesty:

Shiodome
June 20 2011, 05:46:44 PM
pretty major gaming nerd, but tend to get my 'none games workshop' fix with boardgames rather than other tabletop miniature games. mainly because it takes me so long just building/painting/collecting 1 army for 1 games system (WH40k) i just cba picking up a 2nd, especially as it's just loads more money and figures that'll never get painted. that's probably why GW has such a strong market share despite the rules systems beign a bit 'meh' and the models often being a bit too cartoony for many adult gamers tastes (myself included for a lot of stuff). people will first get into the game with the most potential opponents, and then after that many people just don't have the time/resources to spread out into other systems even though they'd be interested.

this is also why boardgames are awesome, the investment needed is comparitively minimal, as is the time investment.... but a good game will get played every bit as much as a tabletop game you've invested hundreds of hours into. hell, our group plays 'settlers of catan' every bit as much as 40k for the last few months...

High Sierra
June 20 2011, 07:36:24 PM
you have many valid points sir.

played carcasonne?

I intended this thread to be for mainly non40K stuff except pics of models and conversions really

Winged Nazgul
June 20 2011, 08:38:23 PM
[youtube:14p92myw]dxx6BupgRmI[/youtube:14p92myw]

High Sierra
June 20 2011, 08:40:35 PM
thank you for that helpful and constructive post.

Kaianna
June 20 2011, 09:01:59 PM
Warmachine was awesome, and I did win :D
Practice for a few tournaments that are coming up....it's the only game I play "competitively", and I absolutely love it.

High Sierra
June 20 2011, 09:10:50 PM
often looked at warmachine but never really played it - got far too much other stuff to get done (of course)

just discussing next years games in WoT

High Sierra
June 21 2011, 08:01:36 PM
one of the games next year will be 1/300 scale WWII using the old WRG rules.

1/300 scale means putting approximately a division on the table at a go. per side.

looks like we'll be doing early war too which makes it more interesting. no 'hordes of tigers and panthers' to contend with.

Kaianna
June 21 2011, 08:40:53 PM
1/300 is what...6mm give or take?

I did 6mm Cold War era for a while. T-72 regiments ve chieftains, awesome.

High Sierra
July 3 2011, 03:53:12 PM
http://www.ironhands.com/necro.htm

check this guys website out. I wish I could model and paint like this.

Mrenda
July 30 2011, 03:42:42 AM
Any of you play the Ambush Alley games, i.e Force on Force? They have modern infantry combat, with mostly an army vs insurgency theme going through it, but have branched out into Vietnam and Iraq.

I don't have the money to spend on GW stuff, and I wouldn't want to play it if I did have the money. This looks like it could be good and cheap. I figure I'm going to buy the rulesbook once the weekend is over, and see if it's worth splurging on two forces. Two forces as no-one I know is going to buy into it along with me, but probably will play if I buy. I figure I can get the book, two forces good enough for skirmishing and paints for about €120. And even better it will be do-able in smaller packages as I get the cash for it.

Website: http://ambushalleygames.com/
Amazon (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Force-Ambush-Alley-Games/dp/1849085161/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1311994436&sr=8-1)

High Sierra
August 3 2011, 03:55:23 PM
Full Thrust.

We've had these models for a few years now, occasionally they see the light of day.
A fun game although the makers need to get around to sorting out the rule set properly.

So since its been a while we decided to have a small game to start based on the Start Fleet pack. I have NSL, other players have UNSC, FSU and NAC fleets.

UNSC = United Nations
FSU = French/Italian/Spanish
NAC = Anglo American
NSL = Austro-Hungarian kind of
other fleets plus alien races are available.

Since this is a game based in the screaming vacuum of space, velocity is a bit tricky. We don't use vector movement (although there are rules for that) however it does mean that you choose a starting speed between 4 and 18 inches and you either add or subtract to that from then on.
e.g. Starting speed of 12" in the first turn I accelerate up to 4" so I move 16" and next turn that is my velocity so if I accelerate again I am now doing 20" and so on.
This makes for a very interesting game and yes it does require a rather large play area - we use black bedsheets taped to the floor for the play area.

The first game was predictable: hesitant combat with players thumbing through the rule book trying to remember how to do things, the NSL fleet ended up at 40" per turn doing drive-by's on any target that happened to be in the way.

So the next game was begun and we used larger fleets since it was all coming back to us by now. this game was incredibly bloody with fleets from all sides taking severe damage as the afternoon wore on. Of course the UNSC fleet lost nearly a whole squadron when the controlling player failed to plan ahead sufficiently and flew into an asteroid field.
To succesfully dodge an asteroid you need to subtract your thrust rating from your current velocity. you then roll 1d6 and you need to equal or exceed that number to avoid the asteroid. so. the player in question went kind of white when he realised he was doing 24" velocity and had a thrust rating of 4. splat. (do ships hitting asteroids in space go 'splat?') he was left with 2 ships from a squadron of 8, once again proving that planning ahead really does help.

more games are to be had and I shall be writing some up here to annoy, bore and maybe entertain you.
I am also repainting my NSL and shall be posting pics etc to show you all how terrible I am at painting. Especially since im thinking about using the airbrush again.......

Renox
August 3 2011, 07:55:43 PM
Full Thrust.

We've had these models for a few years now, occasionally they see the light of day.
A fun game although the makers need to get around to sorting out the rule set properly.

So since its been a while we decided to have a small game to start based on the Start Fleet pack. I have NSL, other players have UNSC, FSU and NAC fleets.

UNSC = United Nations
FSU = French/Italian/Spanish
NAC = Anglo American
NSL = Austro-Hungarian kind of
other fleets plus alien races are available.

Since this is a game based in the screaming vacuum of space, velocity is a bit tricky. We don't use vector movement (although there are rules for that) however it does mean that you choose a starting speed between 4 and 18 inches and you either add or subtract to that from then on.
e.g. Starting speed of 12" in the first turn I accelerate up to 4" so I move 16" and next turn that is my velocity so if I accelerate again I am now doing 20" and so on.
This makes for a very interesting game and yes it does require a rather large play area - we use black bedsheets taped to the floor for the play area.

The first game was predictable: hesitant combat with players thumbing through the rule book trying to remember how to do things, the NSL fleet ended up at 40" per turn doing drive-by's on any target that happened to be in the way.

So the next game was begun and we used larger fleets since it was all coming back to us by now. this game was incredibly bloody with fleets from all sides taking severe damage as the afternoon wore on. Of course the UNSC fleet lost nearly a whole squadron when the controlling player failed to plan ahead sufficiently and flew into an asteroid field.
To succesfully dodge an asteroid you need to subtract your thrust rating from your current velocity. you then roll 1d6 and you need to equal or exceed that number to avoid the asteroid. so. the player in question went kind of white when he realised he was doing 24" velocity and had a thrust rating of 4. splat. (do ships hitting asteroids in space go 'splat?') he was left with 2 ships from a squadron of 8, once again proving that planning ahead really does help.

more games are to be had and I shall be writing some up here to annoy, bore and maybe entertain you.
I am also repainting my NSL and shall be posting pics etc to show you all how terrible I am at painting. Especially since im thinking about using the airbrush again.......

More of this please. Just bought a ScanFed and NSL starter fleets and am painting. looking forward to trying it out as the rules of the game seems quite good (planning to use the Full Thrust: Cross Dimensions version).

High Sierra
August 3 2011, 09:10:46 PM
remind me- isthat the version with the random event cards?

Renox
August 4 2011, 08:20:24 AM
Keeping in mind that I'm only halfway through the rules yet (have scanned them all though), no, no random events. It's basically one rulebook that combines all the rules of the original Full Thrust, More Thrust and Fleet Books 1 and 2 with a few changes to help with the balance. Makes it easier just to have that one book.

http://members.ozemail.com.au/~laranzu/fullthrust/rules/index.html

High Sierra
August 4 2011, 04:44:07 PM
ah right.

occasionally we use a set of cards that put random events in. so when you reach a threshold, rather than roll to see which modules have died you take a card and it can either do nothing to your ship or something nasty.... or you get a 'Final Frontier' card where something really random happens such as:

1) Dave Lister fixes your warp drive (or Rimmer completely buggers it)
2) COmmander whorf (however you fucking spell it) turns up on your bridge and stops everyone fighting or something
3) Commander Kruge turns up in a heavy cruiser and is VERY upset with you
etc etc

I think they might be a set we made up ourselves but I honestly cant remember. it certainly adds a bit more to the game (usually fear when you flip over a Final Frontier card)

Renox
August 5 2011, 08:26:54 AM
I've just about finished painting my ships and found that the paint come off really easy if you are not careful (using citadel paints). What's a good way to protect them? Would hair spray do the trick or is it better to use whatever is in the citadel line for it?

High Sierra
August 5 2011, 11:58:05 AM
1) did you undercoat?

2) varnish. dont bother with the citadel stuff its overpriced. any good model shop will have cheaper alternatives.

Renox
August 5 2011, 12:32:40 PM
1) did you undercoat?

2) varnish. dont bother with the citadel stuff its overpriced. any good model shop will have cheaper alternatives.

1) Yep, Chaos Black.

2) There are no other model shops around here but I guess I can find some online. As far as I've read a coat of gloos and then a coat of matt varnish is best?

sarabando
August 5 2011, 09:04:38 PM
Full Thrust.

We've had these models for a few years now, occasionally they see the light of day.
A fun game although the makers need to get around to sorting out the rule set properly.

So since its been a while we decided to have a small game to start based on the Start Fleet pack. I have NSL, other players have UNSC, FSU and NAC fleets.

UNSC = United Nations
FSU = French/Italian/Spanish
NAC = Anglo American
NSL = Austro-Hungarian kind of
other fleets plus alien races are available.

Since this is a game based in the screaming vacuum of space, velocity is a bit tricky. We don't use vector movement (although there are rules for that) however it does mean that you choose a starting speed between 4 and 18 inches and you either add or subtract to that from then on.
e.g. Starting speed of 12" in the first turn I accelerate up to 4" so I move 16" and next turn that is my velocity so if I accelerate again I am now doing 20" and so on.
This makes for a very interesting game and yes it does require a rather large play area - we use black bedsheets taped to the floor for the play area.

The first game was predictable: hesitant combat with players thumbing through the rule book trying to remember how to do things, the NSL fleet ended up at 40" per turn doing drive-by's on any target that happened to be in the way.

So the next game was begun and we used larger fleets since it was all coming back to us by now. this game was incredibly bloody with fleets from all sides taking severe damage as the afternoon wore on. Of course the UNSC fleet lost nearly a whole squadron when the controlling player failed to plan ahead sufficiently and flew into an asteroid field.
To succesfully dodge an asteroid you need to subtract your thrust rating from your current velocity. you then roll 1d6 and you need to equal or exceed that number to avoid the asteroid. so. the player in question went kind of white when he realised he was doing 24" velocity and had a thrust rating of 4. splat. (do ships hitting asteroids in space go 'splat?') he was left with 2 ships from a squadron of 8, once again proving that planning ahead really does help.

more games are to be had and I shall be writing some up here to annoy, bore and maybe entertain you.
I am also repainting my NSL and shall be posting pics etc to show you all how terrible I am at painting. Especially since im thinking about using the airbrush again.......

LINK TO WHAT EVER THIS IS NOAW!

Kaianna
August 6 2011, 08:44:11 AM
LINK TO WHAT EVER THIS IS NOAW!

Rules: http://www.groundzerogames.net/mambo/index.php?option=com_content&task=category&sectionid=9&id=29&Itemid=50
Minis: http://shop.groundzerogames.net/index.php?_a=viewCat&catId=31

Played this for many (like...15....) years. Confirming it is AWESOME.
There's also a better collected rulebook done by the community somewhere, i'll try to find the link.

Renox
August 6 2011, 09:44:56 AM
Rules: http://www.groundzerogames.net/mambo/index.php?option=com_content&task=category&sectionid=9&id=29&Itemid=50
Minis: http://shop.groundzerogames.net/index.php?_a=viewCat&catId=31

Played this for many (like...15....) years. Confirming it is AWESOME.
There's also a better collected rulebook done by the community somewhere, i'll try to find the link.

See the link i provided earlier.

Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk

Shiodome
August 6 2011, 03:22:42 PM
did you clean the models before undercoating? might still have a film of the release agent used so they don't stick to molds, which also means paint just sits on top of the release agent and flakes off easily. just a scrub with a brush in warm soapy water will do.

High Sierra
August 6 2011, 07:22:08 PM
as an addition to shiodomes comment, and this applies to any model/figure painting:

always clean the models first in some warm soapy water
once cleaned you should avoid handling them as much as possible (for smaller figures stick them to something you can handle easily)
greasy fingers can cause nightmares when painting.

regaerding varnish: yes use a coat of gloss then a coat of matt - when the model starts to go shiny you know its time to re-varnish with matt.
if you must use spray varnish, pay attention to the temperature of the can - it effects the finish severely if its not right (hot or cold). I spent 6 months building a 1/32 scale Stuka for a show only to fuck it up with a bad varnish finish in the last week. unhappy.

Kaianna
August 7 2011, 06:08:01 PM
Can't wait for this btw:
http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/edge_minisite_sec.asp?eidm=174&esem=2

It's based on Wings of War (which is a great game), but freaking TIE fighters and X-Wings! Do want.

High Sierra
August 7 2011, 07:39:30 PM
oooh... we play wings of war....


however. what I want is a metal mini manufacturer to produce star wars stuff so we can paint them ourselves. same for EvE.
(full thrust EvE variant with mini's would be awesomesauce)

Kaianna
August 7 2011, 07:48:03 PM
oooh... we play wings of war....


however. what I want is a metal mini manufacturer to produce star wars stuff so we can paint them ourselves. same for EvE.
(full thrust EvE variant with mini's would be awesomesauce)

Yes, thats what I always wanted too. It looks totally unlikely unfortunately, which sucks utterly.
I even considere learning how to sculpt for this very reason...ships are pretty easy ultimately. But no time, and not much more talent :p

High Sierra
August 7 2011, 08:56:45 PM
a scale such as the one for full thrust would lend itself very well to EvE and Star Wars.
sometimes when I can be bothered to care about this kind of thing, it really annoys me that these companies are only interested in maximising profit.

Mrenda
August 10 2011, 03:33:01 PM
Just got delivery of the Force on Force book. http://www.ospreypublishing.com/store/Force-on-Force_9781849085168

I have to say that having Osprey as the publisher pushes the quality of the book into a different league. The binding and printing are excellent. I've gone to turn the page a couple of times and been convinced there were two pages stuck together, but no, it's just they've used expensive paper that's fairly solid.

I've read the first 50 or so pages. The logic of the book isn't great, it jumps around a little, and I'd say I'm only grok'ing it because I read an example of play. Also, the rules aren't written in a hard format, but more narratively. That being said, it looks like an engaging game. The flow of the battles look to be fluid, with simple fighting rules that stack up with complexity rather than being complex right off.

High Sierra
August 13 2011, 02:10:39 PM
the airbrush is fighting back at me. currently blocked and nothing seems to be shifting it.

any suggestions? I am close to using a hammer and chisel and just buying another one. fucking paint.

Kaianna
August 13 2011, 07:22:09 PM
Tried spraying white spirit through it? has worked a few times for me. Just fill the cup/jar, turn it on and spray it through until it's clean. Might need to leave it in the "workings" for a while if it's blocked up good.

In other news, today I assemebled an Extreme Behemoth for for Warmachine Khador, and am halfway through assembling a Flames of War Fallschirmjager company.

Maximillian
August 13 2011, 07:36:09 PM
Used to have epic weekend long battles of Tractics as a kid. Somehow I got 1 of the 5,000 copies that just appeared in my local games store.

Had green hessian with balled newspaper for terrain, HO scale railway buildings and trees with that rubberised moss for buildings, small brigades of tanks, guns and infantry (normally german vs russian) and a periscope for LOS checks. Often had two players per side and a ref although the refs got bored.

Found the crate full of Ecci, Airfix and matchbox tanks a while back. Still have the rules too.

Mrenda
August 28 2011, 05:00:01 PM
Anyone have any experience of Firestorm Armada, Uncharted Seas, or Dystopian Wars (all Spartan Games) or Catalyst Labs new game Leviathans?

I'm really looking for a naval style game and they all seem to fit under that heading.

filingo
September 27 2011, 01:55:46 PM
necro'ing because im going to do some painting and post it here

also been looking at maybe picking up urban war or dystopian wars

Tajidan
September 27 2011, 02:14:03 PM
posted in the wh40k thread already, but i think this place fits more.

post your favorite or your own gaming table, i personally dislike modular stuff even though it adds a bigger variety to games you can play.
i will post pics of mine laters. its very small (1x1m) and is still a WIP but so far i have really enjoyed the battles when you've got a great scenery going along with it.

is there a forum or homepage that is a "demon winners" for wargaming tables/terrain?

Ashaz
September 27 2011, 02:33:00 PM
Oh. Thanks for the necrobump. i'd forgotten this thread.

I'll have to post my necron conversions here once they're done. :)

Tajidan
September 27 2011, 02:37:20 PM
when you guys are working with greenstuff what are your tricks for it? i only recently got me some and i find it to be quite enerving sometimes, one wrong move and that little detail you spent 20mins to form is gone again. i've read about people using vaseline or talc so it doesnt stick that hard.

Ashaz
September 27 2011, 02:51:15 PM
Oil your tools. use sharp tools that don't have any rugged areas to stick to.
Try working with green stuff with different mixtures of blue/yellow.
Try working with GS that has had a few minutes to harden already.
Work in layers. Don't rush it.
I found an excelent guide by a professional sculpter a while back. I'll see if i can find the url when i get home.

Ashaz
September 27 2011, 03:00:27 PM
Fuck waiting. here you go:
http://mandragoreminiatures.free.fr/

Tajidan
September 27 2011, 03:09:06 PM
ah very nice. i see he uses talcum, will have to try it out. i figure organic stuff is easier, especially Nurgle like tumors and whatnot. thanks for the link


edit:

aah terrain, here some links to terrain i would greatly enjoy playing in

a nice factory style of house, also check out the ruined version. looks even better.
http://www.terragenesis.co.uk/infopages/page438.html

insane, but awesome. and my kind of level i'd like to achieve with my table. cant have those painted toiletpaper rolls
http://thepaintingcorps.blogspot.com/2010/03/adepticon-2010-sabol-diorama.html

unplayable but wow
http://www.brueckenkopf-online.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/gd_diorama1.jpg

Kaianna
September 27 2011, 05:10:53 PM
For fantasy style terrain where money isn't an issue, I love these guys:
http://www.tabletop-world.com/

And for 40K style stuff, Quantum Gothic:
http://www.quantumgothic.co.uk/component/option,com_virtuemart/Itemid,53/


Currently deciding what to do net...pre-Heresy marines, or Eldar Corsairs, both replete with much Forgeworld goodness.
Leaning towards Marines atm, with the pre=Heresy Land Raider and Rhino imminent.

pratell
September 27 2011, 11:04:00 PM
corbania prime (http://corbaniaprime.blogspot.com/2010/11/tutorial-how-to-sculpt-green-stuff.html) used to be a modeling blog based on 40k, guy has some few great how-to's for making capes and terrain and other bits.

filingo
October 2 2011, 11:52:01 PM
started painting my cheapo delaque alternate minis. they are a bit smaller and have little guns but should be good for the rookies B)

will poast some pictures on wednesday

Ashaz
October 3 2011, 09:23:28 AM
Got myself 25 cadians that will be converted to Inquisitorial Stormtroopers for my SoB (FUCK the new codex! I'm using the old one!)
But I can't realy decide on how to paint them.
What do you say?
My options are:
White uniforms with black armour. The armour would be drybrushed black to make it rugged looking.
Red uniforms with white armour. Here I would give the armour a dirtwash first for the shades and then clean up all the surfaces with white again to give it a clean ceramic look.

Both would match my SoB figures well since they are white and red.

Ashaz
October 3 2011, 09:27:50 AM
Yes, thats what I always wanted too. It looks totally unlikely unfortunately, which sucks utterly.
I even considere learning how to sculpt for this very reason...ships are pretty easy ultimately. But no time, and not much more talent :p

For starships, it's not that hard. Make the basic shape out of cernite. Then sculpt greenstuff onto that for detailing and for "fixing" the edges of the shape etc. Also steel wire for turrets, antennas etc.

it's usualy not too hard to make a basic hull that can be re-cast either. Then you can just sculpt on turrets and other pointy stuff that can't be cast.

Koll
October 18 2011, 12:30:07 PM
Most of the games I play are Games Workshop. I have the odd game of battlefleet gothic and also play Mordheim as often as I can, I find it a very fun game and tend to also keep an eye out for more scenery to cram my board with for a proper city.

I also play Diplomacy. a board game rather than a tabletop miniature game, but very fun. It's purely about maneuovre and if you play the long version of the game deception. I tend to think of it as 7 player chess. I sometimes set a board up in the corner of my room for a few months when I get the itch to play it online here: http://www.diplom.org/index.py

and here's a description of the game for anyone who has never heard of it: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diplomacy_%28game%29

Does anyone here play Warmachine? I have been tempted to buy a small force of it for a while now but I just don't know anyone else who plays it near me, if it is good though I may go the route of talking a few friends into starting it. What kind of prices would you be looking at for a decent starter force. Is the game balanced? And is it fun to play?

FourFiftyFour
October 18 2011, 05:52:47 PM
A kid in a photo elective I took bought a 3d printer and had created some of the coolest models I've ever seen. Everything you could imagine from small figures to tanks complete with dents from shell impacts.

He had some crazy money though.

Kaianna
October 18 2011, 06:01:40 PM
Does anyone here play Warmachine? I have been tempted to buy a small force of it for a while now but I just don't know anyone else who plays it near me, if it is good though I may go the route of talking a few friends into starting it. What kind of prices would you be looking at for a decent starter force. Is the game balanced? And is it fun to play?

I am addicted to Warmachine, been playing it for years now, at semi international level. So yeah, I like it :D
It is exceptionally balanced. Every major tourney has very even faction attendance (varies by a few %), and tourney wins are equally well spread out mostly. Things change based on the current meta ofc, but overall, brilliantly balanced.

it is very fun, but fair warning. We are talking Eve level of learning curve to get good.
The rules are very simple, but the whole point of the game is unit combos and synergy. Think along the lines of Magic The Gathering. Easy to learn, horrific to master.
Be prepared to lose, LOTS. But it is massive fun.


As for starting, the Battleboxes are the best place. Caster, and a small but immediately playable force right from the box for about 25 (in UK monies).
or, since you want to get others in....
http://privateerpress.com/warmachine/gallery/two-player-battle-box/warmachine-two-player-battle-box

Incredibly good value. it's about $100 saving, at least, and is immediately playable by 2 people. Even contains a full rulebook (pocketsized too, which is handy as hell).

filingo
October 18 2011, 06:05:31 PM
i have the metal khador boxset i need to put together and paint.

a shop near me does weekly games of warmachine, i should give it a go when they are playing serious business magic :v

Kaianna
October 18 2011, 06:10:37 PM
i have the metal khador boxset i need to put together and paint.

a shop near me does weekly games of warmachine, i should give it a go when they are playing serious business magic :v

While this is ofc advice for any game, it holds even more true for WM:
Make sure your first game isn't against a wanker.

Due to the aforementioned learning curve and combo reliance, anybody that wants to get his ego fed by wrecking a new player can literally table them so badly they will probably never play again.

filingo
October 18 2011, 06:42:37 PM
i have the metal khador boxset i need to put together and paint.

a shop near me does weekly games of warmachine, i should give it a go when they are playing serious business magic :v

While this is ofc advice for any game, it holds even more true for WM:
Make sure your first game isn't against a wanker.

Due to the aforementioned learning curve and combo reliance, anybody that wants to get his ego fed by wrecking a new player can literally table them so badly they will probably never play again.

yer

ive poasted on the darksphere forum and im not fussed about when it is so hopefully i can play against one of the shop people or summit

Kaianna
October 18 2011, 06:52:34 PM
I buy stuff from Darksphere a lot actually, good service :D

filingo
October 23 2011, 11:37:46 PM
painting models takes an awful long time doesnt it?

i suppose its where the value for money comes in (who am i kidding lol) but yeah, lots of time. need to try and get back into it more.

Still working on my fake delaque dudes (juves) and started on tidying up a couple of ebay'd legion of the damned. will post pics of mah juvies when they are done

Mrenda
October 31 2011, 09:49:23 PM
I'm just back from a con. I've bought some Malifaux models that I plan on playing with. And I was given ten Mantic orcs and ten Mantic dwarfs to practice with, seeing as I've never put a model together or painted one. For such things I bought a sprue cutter tool thingy, paint brushes, dry brush paint brush, super glue, a file, base coat and some paint.

Does anyone have any tips for someone who has never done the modelling part of the gaming hobby, or know of any websites that could help.

pratell
October 31 2011, 10:08:41 PM
I'm just back from a con. I've bought some Malifaux models that I plan on playing with. And I was given ten Mantic orcs and ten Mantic dwarfs to practice with, seeing as I've never put a model together or painted one. For such things I bought a sprue cutter tool thingy, paint brushes, dry brush paint brush, super glue, a file, base coat and some paint.

Does anyone have any tips for someone who has never done the modelling part of the gaming hobby, or know of any websites that could help.clear mold lines. you will fuck up a lot. experience is the best teacher. people will go on and on about mixing your paint with thinner, layering on paint, etc etc but seriously, regardless of what you do your first model will look shittier than your next one, and so on.

life is added to models by shading and highlights. if you want to try running first, shoot me a pm and i might have a book for you.

Kaianna
October 31 2011, 10:12:09 PM
I'm just back from a con. I've bought some Malifaux models that I plan on playing with.

I love this game, and the setting/style is just sooooo good.

Mrenda
October 31 2011, 10:39:36 PM
I'm just back from a con. I've bought some Malifaux models that I plan on playing with.

I love this game, and the setting/style is just sooooo good.

Aye. I thought the setting was really good when I read bits of the book when it was launched. I've Larped (not with rubber swords), play RPGs, played CCGs and play board games, but I've never done the whole model and wargaming business. So I said I'd give it a go. I'm nowhere near anal enough to get into the whole story with Warmachine or GW as an adult (I think you need to be a kid or young teenager to really gel with the stories in them.) But Malifaux looks fun, and it was cheap enough to get what a friend told me is a usuable, "Crew." In fact I spent more money on the equipment for modelling than I did on the Malifaux characters. I'll be playing a game on Thursday and I'll report back.

Pratell: What do you mean by "clear mold lines?" Do you mean the bits where the sprues are still a bit stuck on and the flash left on it (I have hung around wargamers for years.) I think you're generally right when you say learn by doing. I was given the Mantic models for just such a purpose, so I guess I'll leap in. I'm just reading through a few threads on forums about the right approach first. Was really just wondering if there are any noob mistakes to avoid.

The only thing that concerns me really is that people are talking about having slightly different shades of the same colour for getting decent effects. I only bought seven paints including white, black and a metallic bronze. If I need more it's no problem, I can get them tomorrow (GW paints seeing as they're easily available here.) I was just hoping I could mix the colours I have to get what I need. (And I'm worried about the paints going off seeing as I'm not doing a huge amount of models.)

Shiodome
October 31 2011, 10:45:36 PM
you get a mold line where the 2 halves of the mold used to make the model meet, and the tiny gap between them leaves a raised ridge on the model. e.g

http://dorrin.files.wordpress.com/2008/04/marine-leg-mould-line.jpg

they can end up standing out quite a lot once painted and just take a few seconds to scrape off with the edge of a knife. you'll be fine with the paints you've got, you can add tiny amount of black/white to most colours to shade/highlight in a pinch. which a few exceptions of course, like don't add black to yellow :P but what colours to use to make new shades is part of learning, and it's better to experiment than stick to rules proscribes by someone else.

Sponk
November 1 2011, 03:04:10 AM
(GW paints seeing as they're easily available here.)
http://s3.amazonaws.com/kym-assets/entries/icons/original/000/000/854/vader_NOOOO.jpg




Get Vallejo paints instead of disrespecting your models with GW paints (except for their spray undercoats which are decent)

Me
November 1 2011, 05:08:44 AM
(GW paints seeing as they're easily available here.)
http://s3.amazonaws.com/kym-assets/entries/icons/original/000/000/854/vader_NOOOO.jpg




Get Vallejo paints instead of disrespecting your models with GW paints (except for their spray undercoats which are decent)


GW washes are p. awesome, but yeah the colour paints are horrible.

Be a real man and paint with enamels, don't need no undercoat and a single coat gets you full coverage of a nice smooth colour. I got a bunch of the GW ones when I got back into modeling recently with the GW models, but they are shocking compared to the old Humbrol and Revell paints I used on scale models as a kid. They are just so streaky and you need 4+ coats to get a decent coat on a flat surface (and that's with a foundation paint!). Plus the GW paint simply will not stick to the plastic scale model companies use (even GW's "undercoat black" which is supposedly a brush on primer).

I'm using acrylics on infantry figures since you'll be wanting the ease of blending there but if you are planning on any vehicle painting it's enamel all the way.

Mrenda
November 2 2011, 07:31:20 PM
If there's one thing I can take from my first attempt at painting, it's that my camera is pretty damn good.

Le Terrible
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m242/Buceph/LeTerrible.jpg
Le Terrible Deux
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m242/Buceph/LeTerribleDeux.jpg


And don't feel bad if your first reaction was to laugh out loud. I did too upon seeing the pictures.

Kaianna
November 2 2011, 08:59:31 PM
Everybody starts somewhere mate :D

As a tip, water your paints down. It's much, much better and easier to do a couple of thin coats rather than daub it on thickly. Bette tone, better coverage and easier to control (and tidy up mistakes).So I can give some more advice, can you run through step by step how you went about it?

Mrenda
November 2 2011, 09:12:13 PM
I did water it down. :(

As for how I did it... Primer first. Then I started on the purple big bits, then the blue, then the intricate bits at the front where it all went arseways. I kept getting the fiddly bits outside the lines, and had to go back and repaint stuff over and over.

Maybe I got it all wrong with the watering down of the paint bit. It just didn't want to spread very well. I was using maybe three drops of paint to one drop of water.

I dunno, I'll try again and see if it goes any better.

Shiodome
November 2 2011, 11:47:34 PM
don't stress it, brush control takes a while to nail. if you're not sure whether you're adding enough water, then just experiment... if a bit more water works bingo (though i suspect you're just loading the brush with too much paint atm). never had an issue with GW paints, but certains companies paints behave differently to others, so can be an adjustment. the GW foundation paints watered down a bit (i just save the hassle and add water to the pot as soon as i buy it :lol:) are a godsend if batch painting a whole bunch of stuff to a basic standard.

Mrenda
November 5 2011, 01:34:27 AM
Thanks for all the help. I gave it another go tonight, except this time with Orcs rather than Dwarfs. I thinned the paint down a little more. Used less on each brush stroke. I can see some improvement with this model. I took a lot more time than with the other two. I think I spent three and half hours on it, only did one this time, and I haven't even finished it. And even at that I rushed through the green at the end to give it some semblance of done-ness when I was getting tired.

I didn't think I'd say this again considering I'm no longer 5, but staying between the lines is hard. As are vertices. I'm going to need to get a magnifying glass. It's a lot easier to let yourself up on mistakes, but when I see the models at full magnification in a picture, there's a lot of places I could drastically improve on. And most of all, I'm seriously impressed by what you guys have shown before. I always new it was difficult but I had no idea how hard it actually is.

Still, I think I've done better this time, and at least the paint scheme isn't ridiculously horrid.

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m242/Buceph/NotSoTerrible.jpg
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m242/Buceph/NotSoTerrible2.jpg

Shiodome
November 5 2011, 03:14:12 PM
yeah, visible improvement. is 'staying in the lines' a problem due to an unsteady hand? some people have rock steady hands and they're bastards, but most peoples hands will be at least slightly unsteady while painting. you just need to find a comfortable way to stabilise your hand. I always have the wrist of the hand holding the brush resting on my (raised) knee while painting, others rest on the edge of the table... whatever works.

on other games... i'm gonna move my gaming group away from GamesWorkshop (WHFB/40k), as with new rulesets and codixes no-one has any interest in them anymore meaning it's been ages since we had a decent large scale tabletop game of anything. we're currently just playing bloodbowl and boardgames all the time (which is fine, but still i'd like the occasional wargame). i'm a bit hesitant about Warmachine though, we have 6 or 7 pretty casual background/fluff orientated gamers and 2 min/max competitive players. our experiance with 40k for example is that over time everyone ended up with competitive cheesy lists, as although we like background based lists no-one likes losing for months on end (and we're all capable of being competitive, just isn't our primary concern). Warmachine strikes me as something that caters very heavily to 'list builders' more than having a theme or story line to your force, which we could all do but can't really be arsed with.

so anyone got any ideas of possible games systems we could try out? ideally something where we could repurpose the massive amount of GW models we collectively own (i.e pretty much a minimum of 3k points of every army available). and how much is warmachine catered towards the 'combos' and powergamey side of things?

Tajidan
November 5 2011, 04:10:31 PM
ive got a little problem here, i dont know where i should post this but since its tabletop related i figure some of you might have experience in this.
me and my friends are palying this dead tabletop called "mutant chronicles: warzone" as its dead the minis are usually a pain to obtain, there are a few shops that still are selling their rest stocks. but the more awesomer ones are, big surprise, hard to obtain.

now a friend of mine is constantly scouring forums in the search for a "hurricane walker", a few days ago he got into contact with a dude from italy claiming that he has one among several other interesting miniatures. here alink to his post, http://www.lead-adventure.de/index.php?topic=34343.0

my question dear fhc is, what would be the safest way of making the transaction. as there is some suspicion raised, well whenever dealing with unknown private persons on the internet. paypal? ebay? meeting in person would be best but i doubt thats possible.

Koll
November 5 2011, 04:47:40 PM
Wow that's a real treasure trove of stuff. Don't paypal offer some sort of protection? can't you set it to hold the money in escrow until you confirm you've recieved the items or something like that?

Edit: https://www.paypal-marketing.co.uk/safetyadvice/BuyerProtectionOffEbay.htm

Mrenda
November 6 2011, 06:23:58 PM
Any of you dudes make your own terrain? What's the best way of starting into it? Tips, tutorials that kind of thing?

Ashaz
November 6 2011, 07:19:42 PM
Any of you dudes make your own terrain? What's the best way of starting into it? Tips, tutorials that kind of thing?

Duno what you call them in english, but start off with one of these and a good knife.
It makes almost anything.
http://shop.kgoutdoor.se/Shop/Image/Article/liggunderlag.jpg

Concrete walls.
Bricks to build other stuff from.
Planks.
Ground for the buildings.
Hills.

Get some cheap achrylic paints, since it takes alot of paint to cover these things.
And a steel-brush to rugg things up when needed, some floc, gravel and stuff for texture.

Then just let your imagination do the job.
Stuff like this is easy. The biggest part is the paintjob. Just lots of dirt and washes. Top it off with a big drybrush where needed.
http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2011/7/1/241889_md-Bunker,%20Terrain,%20Warhammer%2040,000.JPG

Another good example:
http://handmade-wargame-terrain.com/wp-content/gallery/ruined-concrete-bunker/40kruined_bunker05.jpg

Sponk
November 6 2011, 11:23:17 PM
yuck, that stuff is way too soft. All the paint flakes off when newfags prod your terrain.

Go for extruded polystyrene instead (available where you'd buy DIY roof insulation)
http://image.made-in-china.com/2f0j00MeaTBckEajqQ/Extruded-Polystyrene-Insulation.jpg

Frug
November 7 2011, 12:02:49 AM
yuck, that stuff is way too soft. All the paint flakes off when newfags prod your terrain.

Go for extruded polystyrene instead (available where you'd buy DIY roof insulation)Not sure what the hell those rolled up thingies are in the post above yours but I can't imagine anything squishy like that would work well. Also in the ashaz's images you can see that it's regular styrofoam as you can see the bubble patterns in it, and even a place where it's been ripped.

A tip for working with styrofoam is that you can get some great effects by singing it with a lighter. In ashaz's first image, that's what they've done to get some of the walls to look worn down. Also some hobby shops will sell a styrofoam cutter which is just a wire that gets really hot. Those things are gold. That, some white glue, some fake grass and some sand is all you need.

Sponk
November 7 2011, 12:59:50 AM
Not sure what the hell those rolled up thingies are in the post above yours but I can't imagine anything squishy like that would work well. Also in the ashaz's images you can see that it's regular styrofoam as you can see the bubble patterns in it, and even a place where it's been ripped.

They're polyethylene camping mats, useful to put your sleeping bad on because they're soft enough to cushion you against any sharp rocks on the ground.
They are similar to poystyrene, but not rigid enough for precision use, imo.



A tip for working with styrofoam is that you can get some great effects by singing it with a lighter. In ashaz's first image, that's what they've done to get some of the walls to look worn down. Also some hobby shops will sell a styrofoam cutter which is just a wire that gets really hot. Those things are gold. That, some white glue, some fake grass and some sand is all you need. I have had great success using a heated paperclip to make bullet and shell holes in them (also you can twist the paperclip into a circle at the end and make small crater-like holes for awesome mud spashes.

Mrenda
November 7 2011, 01:38:42 AM
Go for extruded polystyrene instead (available where you'd buy DIY roof insulation)

Apparently that shit isn't available here.

I was talking to a terrain builder last night (and am watching videos on building a gaming board now) but he was saying the harder polystyrene isn't available here. It's normally used for insulation and whatever way the insulation industry went here, they decided to use something else for their material.

I guess I can use the normal styrofoam that comes in boxes and shit.

pratell
November 7 2011, 03:45:44 AM
yeah, visible improvement. is 'staying in the lines' a problem due to an unsteady hand? some people have rock steady hands and they're bastards, but most peoples hands will be at least slightly unsteady while painting. you just need to find a comfortable way to stabilise your hand. I always have the wrist of the hand holding the brush resting on my (raised) knee while painting, others rest on the edge of the table... whatever works.

on other games... i'm gonna move my gaming group away from GamesWorkshop (WHFB/40k), as with new rulesets and codixes no-one has any interest in them anymore meaning it's been ages since we had a decent large scale tabletop game of anything. we're currently just playing bloodbowl and boardgames all the time (which is fine, but still i'd like the occasional wargame). i'm a bit hesitant about Warmachine though, we have 6 or 7 pretty casual background/fluff orientated gamers and 2 min/max competitive players. our experiance with 40k for example is that over time everyone ended up with competitive cheesy lists, as although we like background based lists no-one likes losing for months on end (and we're all capable of being competitive, just isn't our primary concern). Warmachine strikes me as something that caters very heavily to 'list builders' more than having a theme or story line to your force, which we could all do but can't really be arsed with.

so anyone got any ideas of possible games systems we could try out? ideally something where we could repurpose the massive amount of GW models we collectively own (i.e pretty much a minimum of 3k points of every army available). and how much is warmachine catered towards the 'combos' and powergamey side of things?bracing your hand on a model can eliminate most shaky lines.

Sponk
November 7 2011, 03:50:30 AM
Apparently that shit isn't available here.I imported mine from Canada. Oh well, I must suffer for my art.

Still have a few hundred buck's worth lying around (or in my walls - who knew insulation also doubles as insulation!)

Sparq
November 7 2011, 05:56:49 AM
Has anyone had any experience with Formula P3 (http://privateerpress.com/formula-p3) paints? A friend has warned me off of the GW paint pots and swears by these instead.

Alternatively, I can easily pick up Vallejo by post from Eureka Miniatures (http://www.eurekamin.com.au/) in Sydney and Vallejo seems to have a following.

I'm aiming for a grittier look for my Necrons but I'm tempted to experiment with enamels on my Tau.

Does anyone have any brand suggestions or comments regarding enamels?

Me
November 7 2011, 06:18:26 AM
Does anyone have any brand suggestions or comments regarding enamels?

I've used Humbrol (http://www.humbrol.com/) and Revell in the past. Humbrol are probably slightly better but there's not much between them, mainly since Humbrol only do paints and stuff whereas Revell are more of a kit company.

Tamiya have a good reputation but I never really used them much. Got some brushes they make and they are great though.

Italeri stuff tends to be on the cheaper end and I normally aviod them unless they are the only one selling what I want.

Enamels are more the scale model paint of choice since they need a heap more chemicals and care then the edible paints GW and competitors sell and their target demographic. So if you want more info some scale model forums would be a better source then GW etc ones.

High Sierra
November 7 2011, 09:12:31 AM
confirming that Vallejo are great.

something me and my wargaming buddies have been experimenting with is calligraphy ink - its a much finer ink than anything else we've found so far so you get a nicer coverage and it pools wonderfully on a model. plus it gives a better colour overall than inks made for the modelling market.

Ashaz
November 7 2011, 10:02:58 AM
Yea styrofoam is usualy better, but those things are dirt cheap to start off with.
I've built a bunker out of it and it's rigid enough once you've built it so the walls support eachother.
The paint hardens up the surfaces aswell.

Mrenda
November 7 2011, 10:34:07 AM
Presuming I have no second thoughts on the bus home (and none of you fine gentlemen interject pretty pronto) I think I will be taking the plunge on General Quarters 3rd Ed when I get home. A naval game has been something I've been looking for for quite a while. I might even be able to get my aul fella to play at some point.

Me
November 7 2011, 12:14:05 PM
aul fella

I don't think that means what you think it means.

Mrenda
November 7 2011, 12:28:59 PM
aul fella

I don't think that means what you think it means.

I think it means exactly what I know it means.

Whatever it means in rooland I couldn't give a fuck because everyone there is an illeducated, uncultured, abo-hating cunt . Except for my FHC Aussie brethren who are rightly honourable people.

Me
November 7 2011, 12:33:15 PM
aul fella

I don't think that means what you think it means.

I think it means exactly what I know it means.

Whatever it means in rooland I couldn't give a fuck because everyone there is an illeducated, uncultured, abo-hating cunt . Except for my FHC Aussie brethren who are rightly honourable people.

Jeez aggressive much?

And it means penis pretty much everywhere in the world. But if that's what you ment carry on then, I'm not one to judge.

ctrlchris
November 7 2011, 12:50:51 PM
aul fella

I don't think that means what you think it means.

I think it means exactly what I know it means.

Whatever it means in rooland I couldn't give a fuck because everyone there is an illeducated, uncultured, abo-hating cunt . Except for my FHC Aussie brethren who are rightly honourable people.
Hey now m8

Ill fukin come and biff ya one ya drongo.

Mrenda
November 7 2011, 12:57:48 PM
aul fella

I don't think that means what you think it means.

I think it means exactly what I know it means.

Whatever it means in rooland I couldn't give a fuck because everyone there is an illeducated, uncultured, abo-hating cunt . Except for my FHC Aussie brethren who are rightly honourable people.

Jeez aggressive much?

And it means penis pretty much everywhere in the world. But if that's what you ment carry on then, I'm not one to judge.

The big fella, tall fella, etc. are all politicians from Irish history and the phrases are often used to refer people in Ireland, "aul fella" is pretty common for referring to a father. It's been used in national papers and on national TV that way here.

But, as I implied: Aussies have little appreciation for people's culture. Probably because they couldn't be fucked having one of their own, so why bother caring about anyone else's.

Edit: It's all your fucking roo burgers. You've probably caught Mad Roo Disease.

Me
November 7 2011, 01:21:03 PM
aul fella

I don't think that means what you think it means.

I think it means exactly what I know it means.

Whatever it means in rooland I couldn't give a fuck because everyone there is an illeducated, uncultured, abo-hating cunt . Except for my FHC Aussie brethren who are rightly honourable people.

Jeez aggressive much?

And it means penis pretty much everywhere in the world. But if that's what you ment carry on then, I'm not one to judge.

The big fella, tall fella, etc. are all politicians from Irish history and the phrases are often used to refer people in Ireland, "aul fella" is pretty common for referring to a father. It's been used in national papers and on national TV that way here.

But, as I implied: Aussies have little appreciation for people's culture. Probably because they couldn't be fucked having one of their own, so why bother caring about anyone else's.

Edit: It's all your fucking roo burgers. You've probably caught Mad Roo Disease.

v0v it's not even an Australian term, pretty sure it's English or Scottish. Was big back in the 60s in all those Carry On movies. But hey of couse insults are the way to settle misunderstandings.

Also lol Irish "culture". If staving, drinking and terrorism is culture you can keep it.

Ashaz
November 7 2011, 01:25:57 PM
Hey now. nothing wrong with Drinking as a cultural expression!
*Waves swedish flag* ;)

Mrenda
November 7 2011, 02:00:59 PM
aul fella

I don't think that means what you think it means.

I think it means exactly what I know it means.

Whatever it means in rooland I couldn't give a fuck because everyone there is an illeducated, uncultured, abo-hating cunt . Except for my FHC Aussie brethren who are rightly honourable people.

Jeez aggressive much?

And it means penis pretty much everywhere in the world. But if that's what you ment carry on then, I'm not one to judge.

The big fella, tall fella, etc. are all politicians from Irish history and the phrases are often used to refer people in Ireland, "aul fella" is pretty common for referring to a father. It's been used in national papers and on national TV that way here.

But, as I implied: Aussies have little appreciation for people's culture. Probably because they couldn't be fucked having one of their own, so why bother caring about anyone else's.

Edit: It's all your fucking roo burgers. You've probably caught Mad Roo Disease.

v0v it's not even an Australian term, pretty sure it's English or Scottish. Was big back in the 60s in all those Carry On movies. But hey of couse insults are the way to settle misunderstandings.

Also lol Irish "culture". If staving, drinking and terrorism is culture you can keep it.

Yes, I was a bit of a dick. But so were you. My language was perfectly correct and you were an ass about it.

I dp however apologise for going over the top about Australia. I'm sure there are many beautiful aspects to Australia, my experience of it is however tainted due to familial fallings out.

Koll
November 7 2011, 02:43:49 PM
Does anyone else play Mordheim? I think it's a pretty fun little game. I'm lucky enough to have an Aenur model so I always try to field him when I can. I am attaching him to a new Mordheim gang of Reiklanders i'm making themed on the city watch from Discworld. I asked my local GW if they ever play any games, but none of the staff had ever played it before. There's a games club near me who have campaigns every now and then. I am stocking up on ruins of Osgiliath scenery as I think it's pretty good for a Mordheim board.

Rules are available free online from the GW site and some of the models in the range are pretty nice. The Elf mage is nice, as is the vampire character dressed like he has just walked out of a 50's dracula film. I didn't realsie until recently that the rules were in a free pdf on the GW site. I may have to try and talk my local store into running a small campaign.

Shiodome
November 7 2011, 06:08:44 PM
mordheim is an ok game, but any time we've been in the mood for that kind of game here the phrase 'well why not just play necromunda?' comes up. and we all go play necromunda instead, because it's similar but better.

(also, some comment about irish people in this thread being unpleasant arseholes)

Kaianna
November 8 2011, 07:10:50 AM
I actually prefer Mordheim to Necromunda, to me it flowed better and was less breakable (fuck hand flamers tbh).
Plus, I tend to prefer fantasy settings, so a lot of personal preference in there.

Ashaz
November 8 2011, 07:31:08 AM
Mordheim is nice. Alot of posabilities to flesh out your characters and give them personality. Somtehing wich makes the game more interesting imo.
And it also makes it more fun to kill your enemies when they have an identity. :)

filingo
November 8 2011, 10:15:43 AM
any tips for painting bones?

painting my legion of the damned at the mo and messed up the first light highlight (too watery and flowed into all the crevices :facepalm:)

i went dark brown, lighter brown, then an off white and welped......

need to base my necromunda gangers properly as well - they came on little built in bases which ive stuck to general round bases but i want to milliput/sculpt to hide the little base

Koll
November 8 2011, 10:30:53 AM
For my VC skeletons I used a black primer followed by a complete cover of all the bones with Dheneb Stone. I then washed this with Devlan mud and added a light drybrush of Bleached Bone. I'm very happy with the results on my skeleton horde and use the same method on any bones or skull details on other miniatures. It's simple but GW foundations and washes make everything easy.

ctrlchris
November 8 2011, 10:50:13 AM
any tips for painting bones?

painting my legion of the damned at the mo and messed up the first light highlight (too watery and flowed into all the crevices :facepalm:)

i went dark brown, lighter brown, then an off white and welped......

need to base my necromunda gangers properly as well - they came on little built in bases which ive stuck to general round bases but i want to milliput/sculpt to hide the little base

I always did bone

black > bark brown > lighter brown > GW's "bleached bone" and then highlights with a rough 50/50 mix of bleached bone and white.

Then depending on the model a light wash with brown's.
Also, when doing really extreme highlights I generaly didnt water down the paint much if at all, but thats just how I did things.

Mrenda
November 9 2011, 06:14:39 AM
I've moved on to painting one of my metal Malifaux models. It looks a little tougher than the Dwarfs or Orcs, with a few more bitty pieces than those. And this is really exacerbating a problem I had with the first models I painted. I've been thinning my paints at a 1:1 paint to water ratio, roughly. And some people told me that even this may not be thing enough. The problem I'm having seems related to it maybe being too thin. When I paint the paint on, it doesn't stick to where I've placed it. It just pools up, meaning the recesses get most of the pigment and the rounded or edged spots get very little with all the pigment flowing away. First off, is this what's supposed to happen or is there a brush control technique I haven't got to grips with yet? Secondly, I'm worried that if I do get the raised areas to a level of opacity where the black primer isn't showing through, I'll have lost detail due to the amount of pigment that has pooled up in the recessed area.

Hehulk
November 9 2011, 11:54:28 AM
If it's that runny, I'd say your probably mixing too much water in. The idea is to get it to the point where you can get nice clean strokes, not something akin to using a wash.

Lorkin Desal
November 9 2011, 01:53:44 PM
How in gods name did I miss this thread?

If I have one word of advice for you people, it would be water down your paints. If I had more words, it would be use GW inks, use vaijello color and use a decent brush.

and now for pics of what i'm currently up to (paint about 1 hr a day when AP'ing freighter.

http://dl.eve-files.com/media/1111/IMAG0123.jpg
http://dl.eve-files.com/media/1111/IMAG0125.jpg
http://dl.eve-files.com/media/1111/IMAG0126.jpg
http://dl.eve-files.com/media/1111/IMAG0132.jpg
http://dl.eve-files.com/media/1111/IMAG0134.jpg

Ashaz
November 9 2011, 02:04:18 PM
Dude. imagesize.

Istvaan
November 9 2011, 03:29:21 PM
I've moved on to painting one of my metal Malifaux models. It looks a little tougher than the Dwarfs or Orcs, with a few more bitty pieces than those. And this is really exacerbating a problem I had with the first models I painted. I've been thinning my paints at a 1:1 paint to water ratio, roughly. And some people told me that even this may not be thing enough. The problem I'm having seems related to it maybe being too thin. When I paint the paint on, it doesn't stick to where I've placed it. It just pools up, meaning the recesses get most of the pigment and the rounded or edged spots get very little with all the pigment flowing away. First off, is this what's supposed to happen or is there a brush control technique I haven't got to grips with yet? Secondly, I'm worried that if I do get the raised areas to a level of opacity where the black primer isn't showing through, I'll have lost detail due to the amount of pigment that has pooled up in the recessed area.

Get to understanding how your paints will behave on the model, and on the paintbrush. Learn to anticipate where the paint will want to flow once it touches your model.

One thing you need to take into account is liquid surface tension. A watered-down paint will be attracted to crevices over ridges *unless* it has something else to be attracted to at the same time - such as a paintbrush in very light contact with the ridge.

I hope this makes sense.

Shiodome
November 9 2011, 08:19:33 PM
to me, if paint is pooling and it's not an ink/wash then it sounds like you've just got too much paint on the brush.

i'm currently selling a lot of my GW stuff, so have pics handy even though i've not painted for ages... each pic is a reminder of a 'project' that never got finished (i'm fucking terrible at actually finishing projects :lol: )

"i wanna make a renegade marines chapter..." (never got off the ground)
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a396/r3c/ENG007.jpg
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a396/r3c/ENG008.jpg

"i wanna paint brettonians!" (painted like 5 models before realising the way i wanted to paint them would take literally years)
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a396/r3c/horse001.jpg
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a396/r3c/plop003.jpg

"i want a DIY marine chapter!" (this one still pisses me off, got it about 80% finished.... and then on a whim re-undercoated ALL of them to start a dark angels list. wtf)
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a396/r3c/gw/99tfu001.png
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a396/r3c/gw/fyd001.png

"i want a wood elf army" (then new edition of WHFB came out, while army was half finished... gave half the WE's to a mate :r )
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a396/r3c/gw/DSC00273.jpg
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a396/r3c/gw/494949003.png
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a396/r3c/gw/461001.png

"i want a fucking sweet converted nurgle warriors army!" (converted about 5 models before hitting the same realisation as the bretonnians) - don't even know where these are now, is only photo i could find but the finished models were sweet
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a396/r3c/gw/hhggffg003.jpg

"i want a horde orc army!" (derp... horde armies are the fucing devil)
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a396/r3c/gob001.jpg
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a396/r3c/lol003.jpg
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a396/r3c/gw/hiyt001.png

so many failed projects, kinda depressed about all that wasted cash/time now.

Caol
November 9 2011, 08:33:30 PM
awesome dreams

i was part of the winning team (back in le 90s) at an informal GW doubles tournament at the Dalling Rd GW in Hammersmith, on the cert it said "who is to say what is possible until they have attempted the impossible and succeeded", i remember not really understanding it at the time but i'd exchange your model skill and attempts for mine any day

Lorkin Desal
November 9 2011, 09:17:07 PM
shio - I like - Pm me prices and shit for what you have and I'll buy at least some of it.

Sparq
November 10 2011, 04:53:07 AM
"i want a DIY marine chapter!" (this one still pisses me off, got it about 80% finished.... and then on a whim re-undercoated ALL of them to start a dark angels list. wtf)
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a396/r3c/gw/99tfu001.pngThose Terminators :o

Calks
November 10 2011, 03:09:37 PM
Awesome stuffs :shock:

Normally I just lurk in here as I don't play anymore, but I have to congratulate you on some very fine examples of work, the marines especially.

Have some rep

filingo
November 17 2011, 12:13:42 PM
spent some time the past few days doin a bit of the paintings and started stripping the paint off a group of tac marines

i bought a little plastic tub with a seal and some dettol and popped them in on monday.. they all look fat and bulbous now with bits of paint floating arolund

took one marine out and put him in another tub with some cold water in it last night.. as soon as he hit the water it started "smoking" and swirling around :o

i took out one of my 39p for 3 toothbrushes from wilkinsons and started scrubbing. fuck me this guy was painted over a few times. green to blue to black to grey... my fingers were covered in sticky gray shit with a slight burning sensation that required nail polish to get off. mr tac marine was still covered in sticky grey shit that was not coming off. i could see the backpack clearly but the rest of him was just a sticky shitty mess and i popped him back in.

going to try one of the old school howling banshees i have which look like they have a thinner coat of paint on them this evening mebbe..

but fuck me these marines got painted a few times. transfers as well. one of the green layers has floated off a shoulder pad leaving a crimson fists transfer and paint job underneath

e: oh god some more ebay caked in paint minis have appeared. i have my project for the next couple of months.

ctrlchris
November 17 2011, 12:27:18 PM
I use stuff called "simple green" to strip minis.
Works p well, not sure if you can get it in nigel land though.

filingo
November 17 2011, 12:30:27 PM
no mate i use dettol mate

it looks like its working its just that the minatures have either been

a) literally dipped in paint
b) drooled on by a paint saliva dog like thing
c) literally dipped in paint

these new ones ive got are hilariously bad, will poast pics this evening.

ctrlchris
November 17 2011, 12:36:42 PM
Mate, thats like your opinion mate.

But yeah mate, I cant say ones better then the other because ive only ever used simple green.

Sparq
November 18 2011, 04:21:56 AM
I've never noticed simple green in the shops, but it seems Bunnings have it.

ctrlchris
November 18 2011, 05:59:38 AM
I think I found it in supercheap auto once, but yeah, bunnings is the best bet.

Sparq
November 18 2011, 07:27:05 AM
AN EXPEDITION IS PLANNED.

Jesus, my eBay watchlist right now.

pratell
November 18 2011, 07:55:09 AM
AN EXPEDITION IS PLANNED.

Jesus, my eBay watchlist right now.me too mate.

also pinesol works p good for stripping paint.

filingo
November 18 2011, 11:18:42 AM
god, stripping paint off large numbers of models is an expedition indeed. big props to people making "reclaimed" armies. maybe ill call my chapter the reclaimers or something.

i had a play with it again last night and my 4 howling banshees came out nicely. paint wasnt too thick and came off easily, using boiling hot water and soap helped a lot and the rubber gloves meant my fingers were not burning. they are the old ones but they are nice white metal ones. one of them had a dodgy green stuff repair to the sword arm which came off - should be easy to super glue. i dont really want an eldar army so i might ebay them or just paint them at some point.

soak in dettol -> hot soapy water + toothbrush = clean models




IDEALLY

fuck me this tac squad. i tried the one which previously devoured a toothbrush and went from green to blue to black to grey. its eaten another toothbrush and is now partly gold. WHAT THE FUCK

seriously the amount of paint on this model boggles the mind. i can now see that it has a metal helmet which might be one of those maxmini ones or an old mk2/3 helmet. im not sure. his arm has come off. the arm is still covered in paint. i dont even know anymore.

i also tried cleaning a couple of plastic ork shootas i have. one of them fell into pieces and cleaned up fairly nicely. one of them sort of cleaned itself but it was infact covered in sticky dark grey shit and has gone back into the dettol. the other one almost cleaned but was still covered in dark green shit so went back in.

im not buying anymore minis for a while.......

e: from readin on tinternet it and my experiences so far metal minis are the ones to go for. or anything with a THIN ish coat of paint. my box of old metal termies arrived in pieces and they've all gone in the dettol. some of them are so clogged up with paint its silly.

ctrlchris
November 18 2011, 11:51:26 AM
Also the older the paint the harder it is to get off.

filingo
November 18 2011, 12:00:03 PM
Also the older the paint the harder it is to get off.

dont see how that will make a difference? unless you mean enamel paint, because holy crap that stuff is evil

ctrlchris
November 18 2011, 12:05:05 PM
Also the older the paint the harder it is to get off.

dont see how that will make a difference? unless you mean enamel paint, because holy crap that stuff is evil
Mate, I dont get it either.
Always seemed the case for me, maybe im just crazy.

Shiodome
November 18 2011, 02:44:41 PM
hmmm, thread is making me wanna start painting again >_<

filingo
November 18 2011, 02:56:38 PM
hmmm, thread is making me wanna start painting again >_<

you are the one who has posted some of the nicest stuff lol!

the store i play magic at is having a big apoc game on the 21st of january so i guess i have a date to get mah stuff painted by. 1500 min points tho :facepalm:

Shiodome
November 18 2011, 03:06:14 PM
haven't painted for about 6 months though, as the only games i play using figures atm are necromunda and bloodbowl... and the 16 models needed for them got painted a decade ago. got a bunch of 'avatars of war' character models lying around that could use some love (lovely models). have been toying with painting up some stuff that i intend to sell anyway to 'add value', but no idea what people pay for painted figures or what kind of things are likely to sell well.

filingo
November 18 2011, 03:10:37 PM
those avatars of wars minis are awesome looking. which ones have you got?

Shiodome
November 18 2011, 04:35:45 PM
http://www.avatars-of-war.com/eng/web/images/minis/aow04/aow04_painted.jpg
http://www.avatars-of-war.com/eng/web/images/minis/aow11/aow11_painted.jpg
http://www.avatars-of-war.com/eng/web/images/minis/aow03/aow03_painted.jpg

(obviously not my painting, just the pics from their site.)

they cost about the same and are much better than GW, so fuck knows why you'd buy GW charactre models unless you play GW tournaments.

filingo
November 19 2011, 02:32:02 PM
So with some inital trepidation i opened up the tub of filth (aka models and dettol) and pulled out a paint caked metal terminator i dumped in on wednesday.

straight into boiling water, paint peeling off beautifully. i dont have any toothbrushes left so i basically just swooshed them around in the water and picked bits off with cocktail skewers. hour and a bit later ive got 9 white metal terminators in pieces with almost all of the paint off. i think ill have to go over a couple with some nail varnish to get the last of it out of the nooks and crannies but it should be all good. There is a nice lot of detail on these models - lots of cool crux terminatis and skulls and shit everywhere. after the inital dissapointment with the tac squad im feeling a lot better about the project.

another part has arrived as well - awesome space crusade marines for my dev squad which has some really cool chaos marines in there as well. i think another bargain basement purchase of misc space crusade shit may give me a tac squads worth. i have some cool as shit old old old flamers for them :D

speaking of tac squads, ive given the ones in dettol all a dip and swoosh in boiling hot soapy water and at least another layer of paint has come off all of them. Whilst they are caked in paint at least 3/4 of the termies had a similar amount on them and they've come up lurverly having less days in the dettol. There also seems to be a layer of sticky shitty residue on all of the plastics which im not seeing on the metals. v0v. they seem to be coming along and its a noticable amount of paint off them. I've put them back in along with a couple of plastic terms that are also caked in paint and i think ill leave them be for a while now...

for the total number of terms i have now..

well i think im going for 3 ten man squads in the end B)

i have 10 of the mark 1 space hulk terminators and a terminator armour librarian from the same set. i think im going to use one of the space crusade assault cannons on one termie as i've only got one heavy flamer mini. total cost for this squad is about a tenner inc postage i think? all of them need stripping and they are plastic so these will take a while.. should be cool tho.

of the 9 metal terms ive stripped today

3 cyclones
1 assault cannon
1 power sword
2 powerfist
2 chainfists

on ebay i've won 3 more chainfists, 1 power fist, 2 of the old captain with the GRENADE LAUNCHER POWERFIST and 1 old terminator librarian. the first 9 cost me about 20 quid and this lot have cost me about 15 maybe? meh. see how it goes. if i can get them done for this apoc battle thing in january i think deepstriking 30 terms with 2 libbys and 2 captains will be PRETTY EPIC

Shiodome
November 19 2011, 09:27:39 PM
you sure the 'sticky shitty residue' on the plastic models being stripped isn't melted plastic?

High Sierra
November 20 2011, 10:45:47 PM
dettol shouldnt melt plastic. I use it on mine and it works fine - dont leave them soaking though cos it does seep in to the plastic and you wont ever get rid of the smell

I prefer nitromors for metal figures - got to use gloves with it thought. takes everything off. got a dremel with some interesting attachments for cleaning the models up.

filingo
November 21 2011, 11:29:47 AM
ha, well its probably a bit too late for that HS - the tac squad has been in there about a week and a half now

and im fairly sure its not melted plastic, i read up about it first and the detail still looks nice and sharp on the bits i can see and the ork model i pulled out. i think its to do with the way the paint bonds to the plastic maybe?

spent some time on the weekend working on my AOBR tac squad - got 5 or so done, will try and finish some more and post a pic later this week

filingo
November 21 2011, 12:06:38 PM
as an aside : does anyone have reccomendations for scenic bases? i might splash out and get nice bases for everything :ohnoes:

e : they have them at mah local store where im going to play magic this eve :nerd hat:

ctrlchris
November 21 2011, 12:39:27 PM
as an aside : does anyone have reccomendations for scenic bases? i might splash out and get nice bases for everything :ohnoes:

e : they have them at mah local store where im going to play magic this eve :nerd hat:
Scenic bases are cool
I use http://www.back2base-ix.com/index.php?_a=viewCat&catId=3 that guys.
He is in roo land, there is bound to be someone in the UK selling them on ebay or what ever.

also;
Why havent been on steam for 6 days, are you dead?

filingo
November 21 2011, 12:53:01 PM
yeah im posting from an alternate time line where i havent died.

you should make a thread in general or revive the haffrage thread or something.

apologies for off topic.

Shiodome
November 21 2011, 01:02:31 PM
make your own bases, i quite enjoyed doing it and the materials are dirt cheap... just random half broken bits from previous projects and a few bits from a modelling supplier like plastic i-beams/girders etc.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a396/r3c/gw/1937001.png

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a396/r3c/gw/16497643002.png

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a396/r3c/gw/15919002.png

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a396/r3c/gw/98789001.png

High Sierra
November 21 2011, 09:25:38 PM
very nice

I have a large box of random bits of stuff that I keep promising SWMBO will be turned into bases and scenery..... soon™

Shiodome
November 21 2011, 10:59:03 PM
to help save your relationship i'd be willing to take all the bits of you as an act of kindness? ah the joys of have a whole large room just to store endless boxes of crap in ^^

High Sierra
November 28 2011, 09:09:06 PM
I have some zombies from Mantic games. look nice. good molds.

will report back when they are built and painted

Tajidan
November 29 2011, 12:41:43 PM
I have some zombies from Mantic games. look nice. good molds.

will report back when they are built and painted

<3

Please do! i ordered me the 60 Zombs Horde Set, im planning on doing a nice Infestation Campaign once i get them. I'm thinking about Rules that support infinite Zombies (max on the field would be 60 ofc) and being loud attracts more. will be fun.

Shiodome
November 29 2011, 03:00:04 PM
do people like the mantic games system? (i forget the name) We played several games with it and all agreed the rules system was very good, but was a bit bland and lacking in depth and never continued with it.

Tajidan
November 30 2011, 04:49:53 PM
tbh i have no clue about their game. I just want them walkers. And after looking around the internet i found two kinds of zombs, the hilariously bad B-Movie types and the hilariously overpriced good looking ones. then i found mantic zombs

edit:

oh god i just wrote a hugeass post to tell you about my Tabletop but this shit comp ate it.

What i was trying to write was a little intro to Warzone: The mutant chronicles. Its dead, there is no new stuff, license is somewhere at a bad place (paradox entertainment). Good thing is, all the rulebooks are free. You can get them here http://www.mutantpedia.com/Warzone.html

The one you want to look at is the Ultimate Warzone Rulebook. It is the latest and has all the best stuff from the previous rules. Although its sometimes a bit unbalanced (the Bauhaus faction is abit OP) as it was finished as a fanproject but in general its pretty solid.

The game is essentially a skirmish warfare game. And works best with 2-3 Squads (Grunt squads and Elite)
The Elite squads is where it shines, as they are highly specialized and have abilities like "Ambush" which allows the squad to spend more points on waiting and reacting during one of the other players turns without having to do a leadership check if you are even allowed to react.

I am totally in love with the background, you can read about it in the Chronicles of War. Cybersteampunk at its best.
A short rundown is. Humans fuck earth beyond repair, abandon her and settle on other planets in our solarsystem. After an incident a Dark Force appears and renders all human technology useless and even uses it against them. Spacestations randomly open airlocks, spaceships failing for no reason and crashing on planets or vanishing in space.
After this mankind is able to rebuild their technology with mechanics instead of A.I.'s leaving them with mechanical computing machines as big as whole cityblocks. Then there is the Brotherhood, a catholic church like faction that gains huge influence on all the other factions and manipulating left and right and generally be Inquisitorial assholes (instead of helping the bums on luna cities lower levels with their so called benevolence they send squads down there to just flamethrower those hobo asses.)

for the RPG sourcebook go here http://www.mutantpedia.com/eng/GDR.html

filingo
December 1 2011, 09:45:31 AM
wanted to post about finishing up my tac squad but.. i didnt :p

looked at my soaked in dettol minis again - some models caked in paint had swelled up to about twice the size and the paint simply peeled off as a sort of coccon revealing a minature below it.

these were plastic minis and they cleaned up well - im not sure what is up with my tac squad

the tac squad is a bit of a pain in the arse really. At best the plastic is stained and at worst there is still a layer of shit/melted detail or random parts on them. There are a few which i think i can just glue back together and respray but others are going to need some new parts etc. I have another tac squad in a box to start stripping so i think im going to have to try and make one squad + as many as i can from the two and then get a few more to finish the second squad.

currently in the dettol are some more plastic terms and we'll see what happens with them..

waiting on some scenic bases to come in at darksphere as well v0v

filingo
December 3 2011, 02:07:20 PM
so.. a pictoral update as sedai asked me, took some pictures with my macro lens to show some of the detail on the minis but they didnt come out great so ill try again another time. i havent done much painting recently as ive been stripping down and cleaning up a bunch of minis.


http://1bi.us/73h

These are the terminators that were with the orignal version of space hulk. My father has some which i believe came with advanced space crusade or a box which just had all the minis in it. The librarian is from the space crusade/tyranid attack box. I think they are pretty cool minis, sure they are very very old school and show everything that was wrong with GW plastic molding back in the day but w/e. i think they are pretty cool. the paint came off easily from these guys and im pretty chuffed. probably running in at around 10 pounds for the squad + libby which is pretty cool. There are some older "terminator" minatures than these but these are the first minatures of what we know as terminators today (termies weren't in 40k until space hulk came out and people wanted to use them in 40k apparently)

http://1bi.us/73i

heres a nice big bunch of rogue trader era terminators with a few second edition metal terms sneaking in at the bottom (in bags). i took some pictures to show the detail but they didnt come out great so will redo if anyone wants me to. these have cleaned up nicely for the most part - there were some classic caked in paint monsters here. the thing i am actually missing to make up squads are normal powerfist termies (lol). i would say they have run me about 2 pounds a minature on average, which isnt too bad really. especially as some people try to sell certain ones at high prices. The cyclones are cool and have a lol targeting arm, the captain is awesome as he has not only a sword with a skull covered scabbard but he has a powerfist with a fucking grenade launcher on it as well. if thats not awesome i dont know what is. there are a couple of original chainfist dudes, an assault cannon, power sword arm etc. the original storm bolters have a sort of spilt barrel design whereas the second gen have a flat front. The shoulder pads have awesome crux terminatuseses and everything so im pretty chuffed with them. Ill make up one squad and then get some more to make up the second (third in total lol)

http://1bi.us/73o

Now for the not so successful squad - my tac marines. These have been a real nightmare to clean up and as you can see it hasnt worked out all that well. They had layer upon layer of paint on them and i think some of it must of been enamel or something. There are also some wierd parts in there which will need fixing up. Its not all bad and i dont think i can be too dissapointed but its not a resounding success like the termies have been. A bit of work needs to go into them still before i can paint them all up. I have another tac squad to strip so i think im going to make something from the two and see how it goes..

http://1bi.us/73j

bad pic but heres some of the painting ive been doing. Half of a AOBR tac squad which are going ok, pretty happy with them and would reccomend people to pick up one squad of them (but fuck having two of them). Some LOTD which have been fun to paint so far, need to work on the bones. Two of them were painted black and white so i just went over the paint instead of stripping. been enjoying them, really cool minis.

http://1bi.us/73k

necromunda tray and some more spess marines. i couldnt be arsed stripping the scouts so they have been painted over

http://1bi.us/73l

i really need a k an r case. run out of room. one of my christmas presents this year is a new case and some nice scenic bases. <3 my wife

http://1bi.us/73m

My delaque gang so far. The painted ones are "skids" from e4m minatures which were 6 pound for the group and are pretty nice (for the money). i have some gw gangers in the pic for comparison, need to paint them and get more gang members to finish it but the e4m ones are pretty cool. need to get some milliput on the bases and sculpt a little to hide the little bases they came on.

http://1bi.us/73n

and when im ready to start stripping again.. theres a dev squad in here somewhere along with some really cool old tratior marines. and of course those terrible second edition tac marines that look like statues. will have to make some terrain later..

ponger out o/

Gaydai
December 3 2011, 02:15:37 PM
I love you FILINGO RAPONGO :3

I for one bought new pots of paint (some silver, tin bitz, mordian blue, some brown and tin bitz) to see if I can make some Astrals - gonna go terrible though. I also finished posing my Captain, who is now the vet-sgt of my main tac-squad (that haven't even been assembled yet).

Gonna try the following on them though : Tin bitz basecoat - drybrush boltgun - chaos black wash in the recesses and some boltgun and mithril highlights. I have no idea how the Tin Bitz will work as a basecoat but some say it works wonders on metal schemes that needs a bit of warmth. Will see.

Shiodome
December 3 2011, 04:39:06 PM
*ponger wall of awesome*

never tried the whole reclaiming thing (i'm normally the one hacking models apart for 'projects'), but the access to cool models makes it tempting.

myself i bought 3 grades of styrene sheeting, hexagonal plastic rods (2mm), precision tweezers, ploycement, new knife blades, plastic i-beams and some square 'tubing'. the project beginneth.

Jalif
December 3 2011, 06:26:18 PM
Always liked warhammer but never really had the chance to really start on it. What kind of budget should I think of if I want to start with this? Oh, and I'm only doing it for the esthetics, not for the table game itself (yet).

Istvaan
December 3 2011, 06:36:28 PM
Taking a break from Skyrim to finish my 10th Chaos Terminator. Will post pics once done.

Shiodome
December 3 2011, 08:35:58 PM
Always liked warhammer but never really had the chance to really start on it. What kind of budget should I think of if I want to start with this? Oh, and I'm only doing it for the esthetics, not for the table game itself (yet).

if you're just in it for the aesthetics (by which i presume you mean 'some of the models look cool') and not a functioning army you can buy anywhere between 1 and hundreds of models, so hard to give a budget. also depends if you already own paints/brushes/modelling stuff etc. 30 would get you set up with paints and any of a range of cool single character models, look at 250+ for an army. the GW starter paints set are decent and people bitching about GW paints is just your typical bittervet grumbling... afaik they come with a bunch of basic models to have a crack at too.

if you have a vision and want to make a force with a very specific look, requiring lots of modelling and conversions, canabalising bits from a range of kits... well don't be surprised if pricing it up it comes to 1k+ :lol:

Gaydai
December 4 2011, 12:41:26 AM
Always liked warhammer but never really had the chance to really start on it. What kind of budget should I think of if I want to start with this? Oh, and I'm only doing it for the esthetics, not for the table game itself (yet).

A few friends game me a basic starter-set with 6 paints, a brush and 5 plastic models (Look today and they had updated them with more paints, also found a fantasy starterkit that looked ace). Been hooked ever since and buys new things alittle at a time. I'd say buying a shitton straight away is not ideal, will just leave you not finishing them and then buying new models instead.

Pongo would say getting a Necromunda gang is a good start if you wanna be creative, I am tempted to do it myself. B)

Seamus
December 4 2011, 01:54:43 AM
Looks likes a solid start flamingo.

Never got round to actually playing a game with mates, always enjoyed painting/making bases and custom parts. Airfix ended up taking my time tbh, big up to rpg modellers tho.

High Sierra
December 4 2011, 08:36:47 AM
gently gently people.

within 6 months we shall have his soul......


these mantic zombies are great! easy to put together, good detail and they are well proportioned too (hands are appropriate to the model which is not something you usually find)

I might even have a go at converting some to WWII German/Russian zombies.....

High Sierra
December 4 2011, 08:57:59 PM
At the shops today, we nipped in to the model shop so I could pick up some more paints and stuff - the shop stocks some GW kit and I saw pots of 'liquid greenstuff'

anyone know how this is used? I am very interested

Shiodome
December 4 2011, 09:11:38 PM
haven't used it myself, but for filling the tiny gaps between components it might be cool. it's water soluble, so you just brush it on to where it's needed and wipe off the excess.

Kaianna
December 4 2011, 09:32:25 PM
Not strictly related to the gaming, but I just got done teaching my missus how to airbrush.....ponies.

She makes custom MLP toys for people on commission, and now I am airbrushing them.

My life has taken a strange turn:/

High Sierra
December 4 2011, 09:37:11 PM
Not strictly related to the gaming, but I just got done teaching my missus how to airbrush.....ponies.

She makes custom MLP toys for people on commission, and now I am airbrushing them.

My life has taken a strange turn:/


you are going to end up wearing a skirt and lipstick at the weekends.

Kaianna
December 4 2011, 09:37:42 PM
Not strictly related to the gaming, but I just got done teaching my missus how to airbrush.....ponies.

She makes custom MLP toys for people on commission, and now I am airbrushing them.

My life has taken a strange turn:/



you are going to end up wearing a skirt and lipstick at the weekends.


I would normally laugh that off, but frankly it seems entirely possible atm.

High Sierra
December 10 2011, 08:32:09 PM
that liquid green stuff is fucking awesome.

simple to use, it washes straight out of the brush .

Only thing is you seriously need to keep the pot closed as soon as you have charge your brush cos it will start to cure straight away. and you need to ensure the pot is firmly sealed.

I would recommend keeping a brush purely for liquid green stuff.

Jalif
December 11 2011, 09:43:20 AM
I've made my decision on what I want to paint etc etc. But... how do I do it? Any nice article on the web how to paint and model those little figures?

For those who wonder which I'm choosing. Tau Empire or Grey Knights

Me
December 11 2011, 11:32:39 AM
I've made my decision on what I want to paint etc etc. But... how do I do it? Any nice article on the web how to paint and model those little figures?

For those who wonder which I'm choosing. Tau Empire or Grey Knights

There's thousands of articles/tutorials out there, be a bit more specific and someone could link you a good one.

This wouldn't be a terrible place to start reading some stuff http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/forums/show/68.page;jsessionid=C58144A51EE3EA56A1FB9AC319500E5 1

pratell
December 11 2011, 08:09:10 PM
ah god i just dropped $140 on five thunderwolf models, i think i have a problem.

High Sierra
December 11 2011, 08:39:08 PM
ah god i just dropped $140 on five thunderwolf models, i think i have a problem.

no no, you have a hobby.
However you are not a true hobbyist if you dont look at these 5 models in a years time, one of which is half painted, two are half built and the remainder are still sealed in the packaging. and then wonder why you bought them. (and then secretly plan to buy more BECAUSE YOU'LL PAINT THEM ONE DAY HONEST)

Jalif
December 11 2011, 10:11:42 PM
The little book/megazine "How To Paint Citadel Miniatures" is kinda useless isn't it? With all those tutorials on the web... Or should I get it?

Constantinus
December 11 2011, 10:34:15 PM
The book is utterly useless. There are good internet tutorials for almost all imaginable painting techniques and warhammer armies.

Fellblade
December 11 2011, 11:50:21 PM
Also you can get the book in pdf from the internet anyway.

Quarantine
December 11 2011, 11:57:18 PM
I used to play Warhammer 40K, Necromunda and Battlefleet Gothic when I was younger, but stopped when I could no longer find the time to paint the models. While I was never an exceptional painter I did start to become okish after a while, but it sure does take a lot of time to get anything done. I enjoyed Battlefleet Gothic and Necromunda for that reason, you needed far fewer models but far more terrain and I always enjoyed making that more. Sadly my gaming friends never really got into these, even though I found BFG to be the by far most challenging and least luck based of all the Games Workshop games. Maybe I'll start a revival attempt at some point in the future.

A friend of mine kept at it though and became an excellent painter over the years. It was interesting to watch that progression over the years, since he started out at the same level as I but had far more talent and patience. He has made a small business of painting for money, you can have a look at his stuff at http://sigur.tabletopgeeks.com/ and http://taleofpainters.blogspot.com/ if you're interested in that kind of thing.

Shiodome
December 12 2011, 12:47:58 AM
figure painting is only really about 5% 'talent', to be honest it's just advanced paint by numbers. if you just concentrate on being neat above all, then over time everything else will come as part of a natural progression. you just learn what colours go well together, what shade is a highlight/shade of what colour, what consistancy is best for blending (etc, etc) by painting regularly. talent in terms of 'inspiration' and artistic ability comes more into the converting and scultping side of things imo... which is much more about the idea and your ability to turn that idea into something.

basically, with practice and taking your time anyone can paint well if they've average or better motor control. people with really shakey hands are shit out of luck though.

sarabando
December 12 2011, 02:21:20 AM
you just learn what colours go well together, what shade is a highlight/shade of what colour, what consistancy is best for blending (etc, etc) by painting regularly.

we call that talent

Sparq
December 12 2011, 04:01:31 AM
I think everything from my latest buying splurge has arrived safely. I've now got a squad or so each of both metal and plastic Terminators. The plastics have been sprayed over with basecoat and look okay for it, so I'm just going to paint over those and further add to the misery of the poor soul who'll have to strip them years later. I think a metal guy needs an arm glued back on, no big deal.


I can't actually remember whether I bought any Deathmarks ... so I might still be waiting on those. I have my paints, I just need to source some good brushes and a can of basecoat. My dissection kit has a scalpel set (which we never used!) so that'll help clean up things on sprues. If I can remember what the fuck it was called, I'll also track down a can of that one-dip highlight stuff.

EDIT: The Army Painter Quickshade, that's the stuff.

My plan right now is to wait for this shitty weather to end and when the light is good I'm going to unpack and photograph ALL OF THE THINGS I've acquired these past few years. All of which wait - accusingly - to be painted.

Me
December 12 2011, 04:24:35 AM
a can of basecoat.

Don't waste your money on the GW stuff for basecoating lol $26 for spray paint, I use White Knight flat black and white sprays from Bunnings and they only cost about $4 each and are bigger.

Speaking of, I really should go out and spray the box of dudes i've got sitting around since it's nice weather today.

Update: Painted.
Note to self: don't put your head in close to make sure you're getting all the details, I can still smell paint.

Sparq
December 12 2011, 05:45:17 AM
Sweet. I've already been warned about GW cans and lolprices, a friend put me onto a few things but I'll try white knight first because :cheap:

Quarantine
December 13 2011, 12:33:30 AM
basically, with practice and taking your time anyone can paint well if they've average or better motor control. people with really shakey hands are shit out of luck though.

Of course you can, just as anyone can learn to play an instrument. It's just that with talent, you learn faster. Not that it really matters too much, I think it's a rewarding hobby either way.

Sponk
December 14 2011, 11:38:27 PM
lol found some old terrain pics of mine from 2005.

http://web.archive.org/web/20050713040501im_/http://www.hexscape.com.au/images/hextiles.jpg

http://web.archive.org/web/20050712202739im_/http://www.hexscape.com.au/images/homepage.jpg

6mm scale.

Gorion Wassenar
December 15 2011, 09:03:08 AM
I am very interested in how Mongoose Publishing is going to do with their new Star Trek ship battle game.

sarabando
December 15 2011, 07:21:34 PM
oooo also interested hope the models are nice

Gorion Wassenar
December 16 2011, 03:27:06 AM
http://www.mongoosepublishing.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/thumbnail/600x600/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/s/f/sffedhvycruiser_1.jpg

http://www.mongoosepublishing.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/thumbnail/600x600/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/s/f/sffedfleetbox.jpg

http://www.mongoosepublishing.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/thumbnail/600x600/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/s/f/sfklingond6_1.jpg

http://www.mongoosepublishing.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/thumbnail/600x600/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/s/f/sfklingfleetbox_1_1.jpg

Jalif
December 16 2011, 10:47:15 AM
In all honestly, I don't think they look great.

filingo
December 16 2011, 11:01:21 AM
they are prepainted ones right?

Ashaz
December 16 2011, 12:17:28 PM
In all honestly, I don't think they look great.

'Bit of an understatement that huh?

Sofia Roseburn
December 17 2011, 08:13:18 PM
In all honestly, I don't think they look great.

Let's see some of your stuff then champ.

sarabando
December 18 2011, 02:09:13 AM
for a tt game id like to see movie era stuff like Enterprise A and B and birds of prey because birds of prey are sexy as hell

Jalif
December 18 2011, 04:19:04 PM
In all honestly, I don't think they look great.

Let's see some of your stuff then champ.

Still waiting for my first figures that I ordered :P

High Sierra
December 18 2011, 08:52:18 PM
well Mongoose will probably do what they did with the B5 stuff - run it for a bit, realise that they havent got a fucking clue about how to organise anything, throw the towel in and leave alot of people hanging in the air with half a collection.

biggest bunch of useless cunts I have ever had the misfortune to deal with.

If these models are prepainted, that does not surprised me in the slightest - Mongoose only appear to be interested in making a quick profit and then trashing it.

B5- A Call to Arms was a great game with great models that got shitcanned because Mongoose pissed off the guy who was scuplting the moulds

Starship Troopers - superb models, loads of potential. shitcanned because Mongoose are retards.

so they started producing prepainted models for a Modern Warfare type game. Models were shit (I didnt buy any after seeing some at a show and noticing how fucking awful they were) nobody bought because models were shit.

prepainted models are the fucking bane of the wargaming hobby. They take great concepts and reduce them to fucking retard level.
Case in point: Wizards of the Coast.
Got the rights to Battletech, changed THE DIRECTION OF THE WHOLE FUCKING STORY LINE so they could produce a shit load of prepainted heroclicks type models, reaped a bit of money from the 'oooh shiny and I dont have to paint' crowd and then left it at that. Anyone still play? no? fucking surprise surprise.


yes my fellow wargamers. HS does NOT like prepainted figures. they are shit and destroy games. Mongoose are shit too.

Jalif
December 18 2011, 09:28:22 PM
I still can't decide which faction I want to go... They all look so awesome!!!

Sparq
December 18 2011, 10:04:10 PM
so they started producing prepainted models for a Modern Warfare type game. Models were shit (I didnt buy any after seeing some at a show and noticing how fucking awful they were) nobody bought because models were shit.The name of the game was Battlefield Evolution.

The infantry usually looked a bit naff but the vehicles weren't too terrible. Okay, they were totally fucking terrible too, but as shown ~ here (http://www.agisn.de/html/ultramodern.html) ~ there was nothing stopping you from doing a little work on them yourself to improve things.

I almost bought some of the Challenger IIs when they became dirt cheap (after seeing that Abrams) but I was still focused only on 28mm minis and didn't bother. :(

It probably didn't help that they kept promising new models to extend the game and never, ever released them.



As for pre-painted, I can't entirely agree with you on that. I thought the AT-43 range was a decent effort at a pre-painted game. I never played the game, but once they were pulled I started picking up units for conversion ideas at the firesale prices. There are still tiny pockets of stock out on the net.

I have a squad each of UNA Infantry & UNA Infantry Power Armor stored, they're pretty nice. I also grabbed a UNA Defender Snake (http://www.miniaturemarket.com/at-43-una-defender-snake-cobra-m8-unit-box.html) and a Karman Dirt Trike (http://www.miniaturemarket.com/at-43-karmans-dirt-trike-unit-box.html) recently.

The mighty Dotch Yaga (http://www.miniaturemarket.com/at-43-red-blok-dotch-yaga-unit-box.html), which the poor fans waited quite a while to see hit retail (IIRC, release kept getting pushed back again and again) is only $20 itself. Kinda funny now to see the big centrepiece units listed for $15-$20 when they used to push up to $80.

Of course, the one unit I wanted - the UNA Firetoad - I can't find anywhere except eBay and only every so often, and then the prices are either retarded or America-only sales *shakes fist*



Damn it all, now I want a DY and UNA Fire Crawler for parts. :psyduck:

High Sierra
December 18 2011, 10:40:22 PM
It probably didn't help that they kept promising new models to extend the game and never, ever released them.





thats the whole thing with mongoose. ask anyone who spent 18 months waiting for the Drakh Mothership mould to be rebuilt only to have the whole fucking B5 range pulled when they were a month away from taking delivery of the new moulds. (I was lucky - I was collecting the Vree so I got most of what I wanted)

Same thing with Starship Troopers - that was a superb range and they pulled it so they could concentrate on Evolution. wankers. prepainted stuff is going to kill wargaming - I just dont like it - I find the moulds to be rubbish and the paint jobs to be pants and I'm not going to spend money on something if I'm going to have to repaint it anyway. I would rather buy the unpainted mini and do it myself.

Sponk
December 19 2011, 01:00:29 AM
In all honestly, I don't think they look great.
Agree, they're pretty terrible.


Let's see some of your stuff then champ.

http://www.tacticalwargames.net/archive/lib/comp/gothicomp05/gothicomp06.jpg

This was about a decade ago.

pratell
December 21 2011, 08:20:24 AM
my first grey hunter squad, spoilered for enormous

http://i.imgur.com/31utN.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/xKRex.jpg

sarabando
December 21 2011, 02:57:06 PM
that guy in the middle is like a mexican reverse panda

High Sierra
December 21 2011, 11:09:49 PM
not too bad tbh.

work on the eyes though

pratell
December 22 2011, 08:23:47 AM
lol yeah eyes are shit because i am lazy. i feel like they look good but just don't pop. i hate highlighting and tried blacklining, but it just doesn't make the models pop. thought about washing them heavily but they just look like shit afterwards.

FatFreddy
December 22 2011, 08:29:02 AM
sup

pratell
December 23 2011, 08:22:27 AM
supi like your eyes

Constantinus
December 23 2011, 11:30:44 AM
lol yeah eyes are shit because i am lazy. i feel like they look good but just don't pop. i hate highlighting and tried blacklining, but it just doesn't make the models pop. thought about washing them heavily but they just look like shit afterwards.


Eyes and proper shading / highlighting need some time. Les Bursley made a rather awesome and relatively easy to follow tutorial which can be found here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=efjx7EZsaGk
No matter your specific colours ( blue instead of spacewolves grey for example ) the basic steps are roughly the same.

Fellblade
December 24 2011, 01:17:03 AM
Washing is the best and I won't hear a bad word against it!

But seriously, you don't just wash the entire thing and leave it at that, you wash the recesses and detailed stuff, or you can wash the whole thing and paint over raised/non shadowed areas. Washes rule.

Torshin
December 29 2011, 01:59:23 AM
played 40k about a decade ago and thinking about getting back into it. Any good websites i should check out to read up on things or view some cool battle reports like white dwarf had.

Shiodome
December 29 2011, 02:51:53 AM
No, not really. I feel i should add that i'm not being intentionally bittervetty, just GW stuff has never had a particularly interesting online presence (either official or fan made). It's mostly people arguing and calling each other dumb (nothing new there), -or- taking things WAY too seriously. Either way there's not much in the way of quality battle reports, but where GW forums have always been good is their painting sections. Now that i think about it, all the above opinions might well just be reflecting my own hobby preferences. So perhaps input from others here might give a better view of things.

pratell
December 29 2011, 03:50:38 AM
some guy wrote these totally amazing batreps here: pile-in.blogspot.com

however he's been busy with finals and hasn't gotten to play since mid-november.

High Sierra
January 2 2012, 05:22:42 PM
SWMBO got me Bigtrak Jr for Xmas.

I was just playing with it with my son and realised that it would make an awesome GorkaMorka conversion.........

WTB: the courage to desecrate a present that SWMBO got me
or
WTB: someone elses trashed bigtrak Jr....

Quarantine
January 3 2012, 02:57:31 AM
No, not really. I feel i should add that i'm not being intentionally bittervetty, just GW stuff has never had a particularly interesting online presence (either official or fan made). It's mostly people arguing and calling each other dumb (nothing new there), -or- taking things WAY too seriously. Either way there's not much in the way of quality battle reports, but where GW forums have always been good is their painting sections. Now that i think about it, all the above opinions might well just be reflecting my own hobby preferences. So perhaps input from others here might give a better view of things.

I found the Portent forums pleasant, certainly way better than the official GW boards. I think the community from there mostly lives on Warseer now, but I've never been active there so I can't really recommend it. All the other 40k boards were pretty shitty mostly due to a rather young audience, but this is my experience from a couple of years back.

Koll
January 4 2012, 12:46:42 AM
I added some stuff to my WFB dwarf force over christmas and i'm finding myself playing much more Fantasy than 40k these days which I guess means that i'm getting old as that seems to be the pattern gamers follow as they age. One of the things I got was a grudge thrower which as you may or may not be aware is finecast. it was my first finecast model.

yeah... finecast... I really don't know what to say about it. I don't think I like it. Whilst I can see the extra quality and the ease of conversion it brings to previously metal models there are a couple of issues I have with it. Firstly there are imperfections in the model where it looks like the finecast resin has set wrong or melted slightly which is annoying and secondly the whole thing feels slightly rubbery and so light to hold. I just feel like I could accidently crush the model into dust. I just miss the old reassuring weight and feel of the metal models or the more solid fel of plastic. thakfully I already have most of my WFB and 40K armies special characters and I don't need a second grudge thrower so I should be able to avoid getting any more in future.

On the plus side I assume it is outstanding for gyrocopters. I avoided buying any before because as a previous player of BFG I know how much of a nightmare it is attaching GW metal models to those flimsy flying bases.

My dwarf force is designed as a magic hunter force. I have runelord and a pair of runesmiths with all the master runes needed for shutting down spells. In total I am able to remove one of my opponents power dice and I recieve an extra 6 dispel dice and a +3 toall dispel attempts. I have fought two games with my force so far and won both. The first was against Orcs and Gblins shortly after their new book came out. I managed to hammer him pretty hard at range and my troll slayer was a true hero in that game running off on his own and single handedly charging a full greenskin unit challenging their champion and slicing him in two.The guy was the store manager though and he was trying out the new orcs and goblins so i still owe him a rematch now that he has got to grips with the book.

The second match was against an elf force. I got some lucky cannon shots in in the first turn and crippled his bow artillery things and smashed right through the centre of his archer unit and this really had him limping for much of the remainder of the game. I also managed to get an organ gun shot and a full thunderer volley into his elite swordguard unit which left them in pretty poor form by the time they reached my warriors. The key thing about this battle though was the magic phases. the guy didn't get a single spellcast off all game which was ideal.

sarabando
January 4 2012, 01:39:17 AM
so i tried using detol to strip my models and its fucking amazing takes the undercoat off and everything metal and plastic just wash it off with warm soapy water not just water

Kaianna
January 5 2012, 09:50:46 PM
My latest project, large scale Battletech Solaris games. First mech under construction, a classic Marauder. For scael purposes, thats about 8.5" tall:

http://i.imgur.com/B081b.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/5r3Rg.jpg


Just barebones atm, needs superdetailing, paint, weathering and so on.

Istvaan
January 6 2012, 08:30:08 PM
My next WiP, a termie, whom I've been painting very intermittently over the past few weeks. Almost done:

http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj235/hellgremlin/WiP-Termie.jpg

It's an arm-swap. The power fist is from a metal power-armoured Chaos champion, and the melta-gun is converted from orky and imperial bitz.

Once he's done, I'll have 10 terminators: 2x heavy flamers, 2x bolter/flamers, 4x bolter-meltas, 2x twin bolters. UMF.

High Sierra
January 7 2012, 10:48:41 AM
love the lightning motif

are you washing that with inks?

Istvaan
January 7 2012, 03:25:38 PM
Glazes. I think they may be the same thing as inks. I have an old hexagon pop-top of Blue Glaze from the 90s that miraculously survived to present day.

pratell
January 8 2012, 06:28:37 PM
how do you do that shading so well? i've been experimenting with melta guns to go from metal at the end to the black of the gun but it turns out poorly.

Istvaan
January 8 2012, 06:55:41 PM
Very thin Chaos Black wash, multiple coats over the metal. Basically do one light layer that covers 80% of the melta barrel, then another darker layer to 60%, 40%, and by 20% you'll be almost at black. After that, you can highlight the front of the barrel lightly with the base metal colour.

Ort Lofthus
January 9 2012, 07:36:24 AM
Speaking about marauders, I just finished jeweling the cockpit and PPCs of this today:
http://i.imgur.com/Z8D96.jpg
Just needs a little more work on the base and possibly a gloss coat on the cockpit glass and some jewling to the medium lasers (small barrels under the PPCs, currently an unimpressive green). Normally I paint the rims of my hex bases black, but with this mini I used a new sand which made an unholy mess and neccessitated covering the whole base with flock.

Currently working on this:
http://i.imgur.com/pCDZ6.jpg
The flash makes the blue a lot brighter than it actually is. Currently I have the following steps:
Highlight some of the grey-silver areas with a bit more silver, mostly in the legs.
Apply some targeted black washes around some of the rivets and other silver areas.
Drybrush lighter blue on most of the sharp edges.
Line panels with slightly lighter blue then what is there, but darker than the drybrush.
Apply very dark grey to inside of HGR barrels.
Jewel cockpit. I am feeling orange since it looks awesome but all my minis with orange jewling look like shit. I might go red if I feel lucky and try to jewel the laser lenses too.
Blackline silver-blue borders, edges of cockpit glass, and elsewhere as needed.

I may apply a light brown wash on the thing and/or some silver drybrushing for weathering effects. Flock will be lots of scattered rocks with some scrubby ground cover, kind of like my rifleman in the btech thread.

Kaianna
January 9 2012, 07:49:40 AM
Looking good, that Marauder is pretty awesome. Really nice cockpit work.

I know what you men about orange...i've seen it look brilliant, but really hard to pull off correctly.

Sparq
January 10 2012, 12:51:29 AM
Awesome mechs!

Actually, I'm reminded now to ask: does anyone have any experience with Heavy Gear Blitz? They're a little pricey for what they are (imo) but I was thinking of picking up some Caprican mounts for 15mm conversions since - nbs - I found them cheaper on eBay.

I was wondering if anyone had played the game, though?

Kaianna
January 10 2012, 07:08:29 AM
Awesome mechs!

Actually, I'm reminded now to ask: does anyone have any experience with Heavy Gear Blitz? They're a little pricey for what they are (imo) but I was thinking of picking up some Caprican mounts for 15mm conversions since - nbs - I found them cheaper on eBay.

I was wondering if anyone had played the game, though?


I love the game. It's actually one of my favourites, though it can be hard to find players. I pretty much had to buy 2 armies and get it kicked off at my local club.
Just a great game though, great setting, and the models are incredibly high detail when you see them in the flesh.

Sadly, yeah, not cheap. I suspect thats due to Dream Pod 9's tiny, tiny size and the extremely high quality design.

Sparq
January 10 2012, 10:34:57 AM
Well if all goes according to plan, I'll have a Caprican "Hamath (http://store.dp9.com/product_info.php?products_id=409)" APC shipping to me soon. I don't exactly know what I'll do with it yet but the same could be said for most of my collection, to date. There is a temptation to warp it into an analogue of a GiTS think-tank.

The C.E.F./P.A.K. FLAIL Platoon would work really well as 15mm scale robotic combatants so I'll probably end up grabbing one of those packs, too. The Mammoth strider looks amazing, as well.

... fuck. My wallet.



That being said, if the Hamath is as impressive in the flesh as it is online I could maybe try to scrape a small force together. Do you know which of any of the books describes building a Caprican army?

I played Heavy Gear II on my PC years ago and while I like Gears, I really like the style of the Caprican Mounts more.

filingo
January 10 2012, 12:16:39 PM
some dudes at the game store are playing dystopian wars.

steampunk naval battle fighting?

sort of do want

(the models are really nice)

Me
January 10 2012, 03:26:59 PM
It's modelling so I guess it goes here...

Been thinking of getting back into model trains after 15 or so years since I used to play with my Dad's old Hornby ones in the garage. Holy Jesus the things are expensive, the track alone for a fairly simple 5'x4' layout in N gauge would be over 300 pounds, so $500+ and add to that each train being $100-$200 and here I was thinking plastic model kits were expensive.

Kaianna
January 10 2012, 05:33:27 PM
Well if all goes according to plan, I'll have a Caprican "Hamath (http://store.dp9.com/product_info.php?products_id=409)" APC shipping to me soon. I don't exactly know what I'll do with it yet but the same could be said for most of my collection, to date. There is a temptation to warp it into an analogue of a GiTS think-tank.

The C.E.F./P.A.K. FLAIL Platoon would work really well as 15mm scale robotic combatants so I'll probably end up grabbing one of those packs, too. The Mammoth strider looks amazing, as well.

... fuck. My wallet.



That being said, if the Hamath is as impressive in the flesh as it is online I could maybe try to scrape a small force together. Do you know which of any of the books describes building a Caprican army?

I played Heavy Gear II on my PC years ago and while I like Gears, I really like the style of the Caprican Mounts more.

Caprica stuff is in the "Return to Cats Eye" book, along with Black Talons and main CEF list.

Warning: Caprican stuff is by FAR the most $ per point rules wise of any army in the game.

Shaikar
January 10 2012, 06:29:35 PM
Can anyone suggest any alternative models for a 40k techpriest that isn't a 40k techpriest model? Or model lines for one of the many non-40k games I don't know the name of that might be good places to start looking?

Basically I'm after something in robes with cybernetics and/or big armour that doesn't involve giant servo arms and 2h axes - which all the current 40k techpriests seem to have. I'm after something more like this (http://onebit.us/x/i/0bc8ebd7.jpg), as I'm terrible at converting!

It's for a Dark Heresy game. :)

Istvaan
January 10 2012, 06:41:59 PM
Can anyone suggest any alternative models for a 40k techpriest that isn't a 40k techpriest model? Or model lines for one of the many non-40k games I don't know the name of that might be good places to start looking?

Basically I'm after something in robes with cybernetics and/or big armour that doesn't involve giant servo arms and 2h axes - which all the current 40k techpriests seem to have. I'm after something more like this (http://onebit.us/x/i/0bc8ebd7.jpg), as I'm terrible at converting!

It's for a Dark Heresy game. :)

http://www.agisn.de/assets/images/Mechanicus.jpg

What about the guy on the left, an Inquisitorial Henchman, looks a bit tech-priesty without the Doctor Octopus arms.

Kaianna
January 10 2012, 10:02:13 PM
Can anyone suggest any alternative models for a 40k techpriest that isn't a 40k techpriest model? Or model lines for one of the many non-40k games I don't know the name of that might be good places to start looking?

Basically I'm after something in robes with cybernetics and/or big armour that doesn't involve giant servo arms and 2h axes - which all the current 40k techpriests seem to have. I'm after something more like this (http://onebit.us/x/i/0bc8ebd7.jpg), as I'm terrible at converting!

It's for a Dark Heresy game. :)

http://www.shop.microartstudio.com/iron-brotherhood-http05-p-147.html
http://www.shop.microartstudio.com/images/thumbnails/Brotherhood_of_Steel_HTTP_05.jpg.thumb_240x180.jpg

Gaydai
January 10 2012, 10:06:25 PM
Can anyone suggest any alternative models for a 40k techpriest that isn't a 40k techpriest model? Or model lines for one of the many non-40k games I don't know the name of that might be good places to start looking?

Basically I'm after something in robes with cybernetics and/or big armour that doesn't involve giant servo arms and 2h axes - which all the current 40k techpriests seem to have. I'm after something more like this (http://onebit.us/x/i/0bc8ebd7.jpg), as I'm terrible at converting!

It's for a Dark Heresy game. :)

On the lolpad so can't link. Check out the forgeworld techpriest under titan crew section. Its probably their most wellsculpted model, i just want one to paint and look at.

Sparq
January 11 2012, 12:53:11 AM
Caprica stuff is in the "Return to Cats Eye" book, along with Black Talons and main CEF list.

Warning: Caprican stuff is by FAR the most $ per point rules wise of any army in the game.Cheers! Yes, of course I chose the most expensive army to consider -_-;


Can anyone suggest any alternative models for a 40k techpriest that isn't a 40k techpriest model? Or model lines for one of the many non-40k games I don't know the name of that might be good places to start looking?

Basically I'm after something in robes with cybernetics and/or big armour that doesn't involve giant servo arms and 2h axes - which all the current 40k techpriests seem to have. I'm after something more like this (http://onebit.us/x/i/0bc8ebd7.jpg), as I'm terrible at converting!

It's for a Dark Heresy game. :)Old guy in robes, with cybernetic claw-arm. (http://shop.ramshacklegames.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7&products_id=14) Not what I actually went looking for, but close enough that I thought to offer it. I'll see if I can find what I'm actually looking for...

EDIT: Some others in the same range/site that might apply (or do as servitors? IDK)

1 (http://shop.ramshacklegames.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=15&products_id=346)

2 (http://shop.ramshacklegames.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=15&products_id=345)

3 (http://shop.ramshacklegames.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=15&products_id=303)

4 (http://shop.ramshacklegames.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=15&products_id=301)

5 (http://shop.ramshacklegames.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=15&products_id=226)

EDIT 2: Also maybe this guy (http://www.moonfleetminiatures.com/pack.php?pack=31) with some green stuff drapped over as robes?

Shaikar
January 11 2012, 03:22:53 AM
Awesome, thanks.

Some of those would definitely work as gun servitors as well. :)

/e Found the forgeworld titan techpriest, he is rather good. Not sure about the halberd but the servos look like they should come off easily (well, just don't put them on in the first place) and without those: http://onebit.us/x/i/c1fb3dda.png

Sparq
January 11 2012, 03:39:49 AM
Also, for something different there are these guys (http://www.pig-iron-productions.com/kl11-kolony-feral-hq-p-51.html). The guy with the standard could be interesting.

ALSO:

Caprica stuff is in the "Return to Cats Eye" book, along with Black Talons and main CEF list.
I'm a fuck-wit, I've just realised I'm reading the storyline book and not the Heavy Gear Blitz! book.

Which isn't in the pack I downloaded earlier, either.

<_<

>_>

Back to the internet I go...

ADDENDUM: With my birthday fast approaching I've got some extra discretionary funds, so I've decided to grab the two-player starter box for Blitz! as I've now gotten a friend to SWEAR A BLOOD OATH promise to play with me. He doesn't want to tool up his 40k collection again quite yet, so he's happy to try Blitz! with me instead as I'm supplying everything.

Istvaan
January 12 2012, 03:51:19 AM
Progress on terminator #10:

http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj235/hellgremlin/Termie-wip2.jpg

Not long now.

Gaydai
January 12 2012, 10:04:51 PM
I am at "that" point again.

The whole "which chapter should I build for mah marines waaah waaah". Just asking "lolwhich one" won't bring me much, would it? Thing is I have this "dream" project. You see, I *really* want to focus on smaller armies in general, opting for 750-1kp battles at most revolving around boarding-actions (crazy, I know right?). A couple of mates are interested aswell so we would build our very own tabletop that would resemble ships and stations. Will look crap but it's that narrow and chokepoint filled battles we want.

So where do I start? I know I am doing Spesh Mawrines first and I am beginning to fall onto the original 20th in an Heresy-era-esque setting. Sad but heh~. I have narrowed shit down to:

Iron Warriors (Heresy-era style, fluffetcetcetc)
Imperial Fists (I know they are ridiculous to paint, why I am afraid of them)
Alpha Legion (Heresy era but they seem very clean and "easy" to do, just good old speshies by looks with some really awesome fluff)
Thousand Sons (They seem :very: hardcore for this era, loads of moddeling to do)
Dark Angels (Mebeh, because Cypher is such a cool model)

After this I am making a small Inquisition strike team, mostly for show with main focus on a fancy Inquistior and reutine. That's the future.


Now, I'm not asking you all to pick one for me, I'd just like some hints on the actual PAINTING and MODDELING. Like, what is feasible, what can be done with basic GW/FW stuff, how would the fluff work out and mostly important : the painting :<


I have read of some people playing "Loyalist IWs" after the Salamanders characters and gameplay, they seem to have the most in common when it comes down to it. Meh.

filingo
January 13 2012, 10:17:09 AM
mate, paint up some rainbow warriors

http://www.dakkadakka.com/gallery/17058-.html?m=2

halbarad
January 13 2012, 10:55:06 AM
I am at "that" point again.

The whole "which chapter should I build for mah marines waaah waaah". Just asking "lolwhich one" won't bring me much, would it? Thing is I have this "dream" project. You see, I *really* want to focus on smaller armies in general, opting for 750-1kp battles at most revolving around boarding-actions (crazy, I know right?). A couple of mates are interested aswell so we would build our very own tabletop that would resemble ships and stations. Will look crap but it's that narrow and chokepoint filled battles we want.

So where do I start? I know I am doing Spesh Mawrines first and I am beginning to fall onto the original 20th in an Heresy-era-esque setting. Sad but heh~. I have narrowed shit down to:

Iron Warriors (Heresy-era style, fluffetcetcetc)
Imperial Fists (I know they are ridiculous to paint, why I am afraid of them)
Alpha Legion (Heresy era but they seem very clean and "easy" to do, just good old speshies by looks with some really awesome fluff)
Thousand Sons (They seem :very: hardcore for this era, loads of moddeling to do)
Dark Angels (Mebeh, because Cypher is such a cool model)

After this I am making a small Inquisition strike team, mostly for show with main focus on a fancy Inquistior and reutine. That's the future.


Now, I'm not asking you all to pick one for me, I'd just like some hints on the actual PAINTING and MODDELING. Like, what is feasible, what can be done with basic GW/FW stuff, how would the fluff work out and mostly important : the painting :<


I have read of some people playing "Loyalist IWs" after the Salamanders characters and gameplay, they seem to have the most in common when it comes down to it. Meh.

Salamanders are pretty cool, a nice look to them with the combination of dark-ish greens and scaly cloaks/gear/etc. I'll try to post some pics of the ones I've got done so far. Lots of interesting modelling options due to the lizard/dragon lore as you can combine the bits with some of the cool looking Chaos flamers etc with dragon heads and Vulkan He'Stan is a great character (though the model is a bit meh).

From a gaming point of view they would be pretty useful in your planned gaming board due to the high amount of flamers/meltas.

Edit: Salamanders pics (http://section8games.co.uk/images/plog/salamanders/) (not a great layout or high quality but it gives a good idea at least). I've got quite a few more done now, 2 squads, a dread and a rhino. I'm also working on a converted sternguard squad with all combi weapons and heavy flamers and cloaks but I haven't touched those in a month or two and really should finish them off.


Dark Angels have always interested me as well but not sure I'd like to paint quite that many robes (or bone if you go Deathwing). Ravenwing would be cool but not really suitable for the board your likely playing on.

Sparq
January 13 2012, 12:09:58 PM
I finally buckled and bought the PDF I needed.

JESUS H CHRIST, you weren't kidding around Kaianna - it looks like building even a basic Caprician force is going to be pricey. Why they didn't give them a basic army box, IDK.

On the one hand, I've already bought a HT-68 anyway and if I'm reading this correctly I can take it as my elite squad choice if I play a Corporate force...

On the other hand, these prices are quite rude :lol:

Kaianna
January 13 2012, 04:26:14 PM
I finally buckled and bought the PDF I needed.

JESUS H CHRIST, you weren't kidding around Kaianna - it looks like building even a basic Caprician force is going to be pricey. Why they didn't give them a basic army box, IDK.

On the one hand, I've already bought a HT-68 anyway and if I'm reading this correctly I can take it as my elite squad choice if I play a Corporate force...

On the other hand, these prices are quite rude :lol:


Yeah, Pure Caprican armies are loooooool $$$. However, including the ultra high points CEF hover tanks provides a decent balance as you pointed out.
Most people actually do use a mix of CEF/Caprica, or Black Talons/Caprica, as it's just mental otherwise.

Shaikar
January 13 2012, 04:33:35 PM
I am at "that" point again.

The whole "which chapter should I build for mah marines waaah waaah". Just asking "lolwhich one" won't bring me much, would it? Thing is I have this "dream" project. You see, I *really* want to focus on smaller armies in general, opting for 750-1kp battles at most revolving around boarding-actions (crazy, I know right?). A couple of mates are interested aswell so we would build our very own tabletop that would resemble ships and stations. Will look crap but it's that narrow and chokepoint filled battles we want.

So where do I start? I know I am doing Spesh Mawrines first and I am beginning to fall onto the original 20th in an Heresy-era-esque setting. Sad but heh~. I have narrowed shit down to:

Iron Warriors (Heresy-era style, fluffetcetcetc)
Imperial Fists (I know they are ridiculous to paint, why I am afraid of them)
Alpha Legion (Heresy era but they seem very clean and "easy" to do, just good old speshies by looks with some really awesome fluff)
Thousand Sons (They seem :very: hardcore for this era, loads of moddeling to do)
Dark Angels (Mebeh, because Cypher is such a cool model)

After this I am making a small Inquisition strike team, mostly for show with main focus on a fancy Inquistior and reutine. That's the future.


Now, I'm not asking you all to pick one for me, I'd just like some hints on the actual PAINTING and MODDELING. Like, what is feasible, what can be done with basic GW/FW stuff, how would the fluff work out and mostly important : the painting :<


I have read of some people playing "Loyalist IWs" after the Salamanders characters and gameplay, they seem to have the most in common when it comes down to it. Meh.For Heresy-era-ish Imperial Fists, you could try adding in some Black Templar bits and roll with custard flavoured proto black templars. Get/convert a nice sword waving marine as your glorious leader and you can pretend it's Sigismund.

Me
January 13 2012, 05:30:49 PM
http://www.imgur.com/XSruk.jpg

There's an aeroplane under that dust somewhere.

Kaianna
January 13 2012, 05:59:00 PM
Damn. At a glance, I thought only the green bit had been spray painted, then I realised it'd be cleaned.
Been a while then?

Gaydai
January 14 2012, 01:30:20 AM
I am at "that" point again.

The whole "which chapter should I build for mah marines waaah waaah". Just asking "lolwhich one" won't bring me much, would it? Thing is I have this "dream" project. You see, I *really* want to focus on smaller armies in general, opting for 750-1kp battles at most revolving around boarding-actions (crazy, I know right?). A couple of mates are interested aswell so we would build our very own tabletop that would resemble ships and stations. Will look crap but it's that narrow and chokepoint filled battles we want.

So where do I start? I know I am doing Spesh Mawrines first and I am beginning to fall onto the original 20th in an Heresy-era-esque setting. Sad but heh~. I have narrowed shit down to:

Iron Warriors (Heresy-era style, fluffetcetcetc)
Imperial Fists (I know they are ridiculous to paint, why I am afraid of them)
Alpha Legion (Heresy era but they seem very clean and "easy" to do, just good old speshies by looks with some really awesome fluff)
Thousand Sons (They seem :very: hardcore for this era, loads of moddeling to do)
Dark Angels (Mebeh, because Cypher is such a cool model)

After this I am making a small Inquisition strike team, mostly for show with main focus on a fancy Inquistior and reutine. That's the future.


Now, I'm not asking you all to pick one for me, I'd just like some hints on the actual PAINTING and MODDELING. Like, what is feasible, what can be done with basic GW/FW stuff, how would the fluff work out and mostly important : the painting :<


I have read of some people playing "Loyalist IWs" after the Salamanders characters and gameplay, they seem to have the most in common when it comes down to it. Meh.

Salamanders are pretty cool, a nice look to them with the combination of dark-ish greens and scaly cloaks/gear/etc. I'll try to post some pics of the ones I've got done so far. Lots of interesting modelling options due to the lizard/dragon lore as you can combine the bits with some of the cool looking Chaos flamers etc with dragon heads and Vulkan He'Stan is a great character (though the model is a bit meh).

From a gaming point of view they would be pretty useful in your planned gaming board due to the high amount of flamers/meltas.

Edit: Salamanders pics (http://section8games.co.uk/images/plog/salamanders/) (not a great layout or high quality but it gives a good idea at least). I've got quite a few more done now, 2 squads, a dread and a rhino. I'm also working on a converted sternguard squad with all combi weapons and heavy flamers and cloaks but I haven't touched those in a month or two and really should finish them off.


Dark Angels have always interested me as well but not sure I'd like to paint quite that many robes (or bone if you go Deathwing). Ravenwing would be cool but not really suitable for the board your likely playing on.

Thanks for the input, I do like "some" of the Salamanders lore and looks but were they really that "dragonish" during the heresy? They can easely go VERY costume-ish for my taste. Kept clean and with "grimdark" colors they would be pretty neat.


Dark Angels back then had black, white and red armor if I remember right. Very few or next to no robes (if I'd ever do it I'd only give it to very special characters like that awesome Cypher).

On IF's: You mean you use a more neutral yellow on them? I only ever see bright-as-fuck yellows everywhere. What I do like about them is the fact I can go all-out on charms and symbols (I want to use a clean contemptor in one army and a venerable dread in another. Vene would fit perfectly with some high-fashion IF's. Any pics on that custard-paintscheme? I am very bad at yellows. B)

Gaydai
January 14 2012, 02:55:10 AM
mate, paint up some rainbow warriors

http://www.dakkadakka.com/gallery/17058-.html?m=2

You know what?

It's on, making atleast one tac-squad.

Will try it out tomorrow (unless there is no snow, then I'll go longboarding).

Shaikar
January 14 2012, 04:18:46 AM
On IF's: You mean you use a more neutral yellow on them? I only ever see bright-as-fuck yellows everywhere. What I do like about them is the fact I can go all-out on charms and symbols (I want to use a clean contemptor in one army and a venerable dread in another. Vene would fit perfectly with some high-fashion IF's. Any pics on that custard-paintscheme? I am very bad at yellows. B)Yeah, a light yellow rather than straight sunburst, with plenty of black, white, silver and red trims/widgets/etc to break it up. I quite like the basic IF colour scheme it's just that usually people seem to run with straight sunburst yellow with very little else, so you end up with great sections of bright-as-fuck yellow and not a lot else. This (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_CbSWEUnVCVU/S_DNyAVjhoI/AAAAAAAABYo/PplxkxTDras/s1600/Darksol%27s+Gallery+1183.jpg) is a bit too red IMO but hopefully you can see what I mean - the armour is still recognisably yellow and he looks quite Fist-y whilst not being horribly bright yellow. Unlike this one (http://media.tumblr.com/tumblr_lws4useOQ61qd6bob.jpg).

I've always been a fan of this (http://onebit.us/x/i/c46d9b34.jpg).
The Imperial Fists stop for no one, including random adepts to are to slow to avoid getting trampled on. :D

Sparq
January 14 2012, 10:16:35 AM
Got tired using pencil, paper and calculator all morning to build a Heavy Gear Blitz! army, located and installed Gear Garage (http://dp9.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=241&Itemid=242) and have been tooling around in it all day instead of clearing out the junk in my room ~procrastination~

Sperging to myself about the cost of picking up Blitz! :
My passions were cooled slightly when I calculated that the basic PL1 force of CEF tanks I constructed will cost me at least another hundred dollars to purchase, and another hundred to fill out the three squads out over time. That doesn't include the necessary shipping to this thrice-cursed colony.

My force is configured as, essentially: two squads of Light Hover Tanks, 3 in one and two in the other (LHT-67 (http://store.dp9.com/product_info.php?products_id=541)) for my core units and a single HT-68 (http://store.dp9.com/product_info.php?products_id=41) as my veteran unit & army commander. To start with. I already have the HT-68 so I'm not counting the cost of that, to preserve my sanity...

Caprice only has one core unit available and those are infantry (http://store.dp9.com/product_info.php?products_id=438), and I'm no fan of the sculpts for them. I suppose I could mechanise them so I see them less, but that would be prohibitively expensive in practice. A CEF force can still take Caprician units onboard as I grow it, so I'll still have that option available to me later. The above force configuration has two slots free for auxiliary squads, but basic configurations for those would be about $65 per squad, $85 if I choose to make them heavier.

So ... I don't know. To flesh it out to where I want my core forces I'm looking at another $330 minimum, before shipping. That's a lot of money and I don't know if I'll be anywhere near anyone/groups who play, yet.

So I'm going to hold off from buying the north/south starter box until I've done some digging to see if there are any clubs within reasonable distance of me. At least I can avoid the possibility of getting hooked until I know whether I'll be able to feed my new habit.


I think this is being sensible about it!


Plus, I still have a small pile of WH40K that I haven't been able to paint yet and an even larger pile of 25/15mm sci-fi...

Kaianna
January 14 2012, 12:16:09 PM
Got tired using pencil, paper and calculator all morning to build a Heavy Gear Blitz! army, located and installed Gear Garage (http://dp9.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=241&Itemid=242) and have been tooling around in it all day instead of clearing out the junk in my room ~procrastination~

Sperging to myself about the cost of picking up Blitz! :
My passions were cooled slightly when I calculated that the basic PL1 force of CEF tanks I constructed will cost me at least another hundred dollars to purchase, and another hundred to fill out the three squads out over time. That doesn't include the necessary shipping to this thrice-cursed colony.

My force is configured as, essentially: two squads of Light Hover Tanks, 3 in one and two in the other (LHT-67 (http://store.dp9.com/product_info.php?products_id=541)) for my core units and a single HT-68 (http://store.dp9.com/product_info.php?products_id=41) as my veteran unit & army commander. To start with. I already have the HT-68 so I'm not counting the cost of that, to preserve my sanity...

Caprice only has one core unit available and those are infantry (http://store.dp9.com/product_info.php?products_id=438), and I'm no fan of the sculpts for them. I suppose I could mechanise them so I see them less, but that would be prohibitively expensive in practice. A CEF force can still take Caprician units onboard as I grow it, so I'll still have that option available to me later. The above force configuration has two slots free for auxiliary squads, but basic configurations for those would be about $65 per squad, $85 if I choose to make them heavier.

So ... I don't know. To flesh it out to where I want my core forces I'm looking at another $330 minimum, before shipping. That's a lot of money and I don't know if I'll be anywhere near anyone/groups who play, yet.

So I'm going to hold off from buying the north/south starter box until I've done some digging to see if there are any clubs within reasonable distance of me. At least I can avoid the possibility of getting hooked until I know whether I'll be able to feed my new habit.


I think this is being sensible about it!


Plus, I still have a small pile of WH40K that I haven't been able to paint yet and an even larger pile of 25/15mm sci-fi...


one thing i'll say, is that you don't have to do PL1. Unlike most games where the forces are dead equal, you can always pick anything between PL1 and 4, regardless of the enemy force. Generally higher PL is chaper money, as you have better/more elite troops.

Tnh, hardly anybody plays PL1 unless they have a specific theme in mind....most find 2 and 3 to be the best balanced for cost against quality.

Gaydai
January 14 2012, 02:20:09 PM
On IF's: You mean you use a more neutral yellow on them? I only ever see bright-as-fuck yellows everywhere. What I do like about them is the fact I can go all-out on charms and symbols (I want to use a clean contemptor in one army and a venerable dread in another. Vene would fit perfectly with some high-fashion IF's. Any pics on that custard-paintscheme? I am very bad at yellows. B)Yeah, a light yellow rather than straight sunburst, with plenty of black, white, silver and red trims/widgets/etc to break it up. I quite like the basic IF colour scheme it's just that usually people seem to run with straight sunburst yellow with very little else, so you end up with great sections of bright-as-fuck yellow and not a lot else. This (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_CbSWEUnVCVU/S_DNyAVjhoI/AAAAAAAABYo/PplxkxTDras/s1600/Darksol%27s+Gallery+1183.jpg) is a bit too red IMO but hopefully you can see what I mean - the armour is still recognisably yellow and he looks quite Fist-y whilst not being horribly bright yellow. Unlike this one (http://media.tumblr.com/tumblr_lws4useOQ61qd6bob.jpg).

I've always been a fan of this (http://onebit.us/x/i/c46d9b34.jpg).
The Imperial Fists stop for no one, including random adepts to are to slow to avoid getting trampled on. :D

I really like that look, with the weathering and high-fashion stuff. What specific citadel colors would you use? Only ever used sunburst so I got one or two jars of it. (It's a neverending quest to catch them all, isn't it?).

Sparq
January 14 2012, 02:30:47 PM
Got tired using pencil, paper and calculator all morning to build a Heavy Gear Blitz! army, located and installed Gear Garage (http://dp9.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=241&Itemid=242) and have been tooling around in it all day instead of clearing out the junk in my room ~procrastination~

Sperging to myself about the cost of picking up Blitz! :
My passions were cooled slightly when I calculated that the basic PL1 force of CEF tanks I constructed will cost me at least another hundred dollars to purchase, and another hundred to fill out the three squads out over time. That doesn't include the necessary shipping to this thrice-cursed colony.

My force is configured as, essentially: two squads of Light Hover Tanks, 3 in one and two in the other (LHT-67 (http://store.dp9.com/product_info.php?products_id=541)) for my core units and a single HT-68 (http://store.dp9.com/product_info.php?products_id=41) as my veteran unit & army commander. To start with. I already have the HT-68 so I'm not counting the cost of that, to preserve my sanity...

Caprice only has one core unit available and those are infantry (http://store.dp9.com/product_info.php?products_id=438), and I'm no fan of the sculpts for them. I suppose I could mechanise them so I see them less, but that would be prohibitively expensive in practice. A CEF force can still take Caprician units onboard as I grow it, so I'll still have that option available to me later. The above force configuration has two slots free for auxiliary squads, but basic configurations for those would be about $65 per squad, $85 if I choose to make them heavier.

So ... I don't know. To flesh it out to where I want my core forces I'm looking at another $330 minimum, before shipping. That's a lot of money and I don't know if I'll be anywhere near anyone/groups who play, yet.

So I'm going to hold off from buying the north/south starter box until I've done some digging to see if there are any clubs within reasonable distance of me. At least I can avoid the possibility of getting hooked until I know whether I'll be able to feed my new habit.


I think this is being sensible about it!


Plus, I still have a small pile of WH40K that I haven't been able to paint yet and an even larger pile of 25/15mm sci-fi...


one thing i'll say, is that you don't have to do PL1. Unlike most games where the forces are dead equal, you can always pick anything between PL1 and 4, regardless of the enemy force. Generally higher PL is chaper money, as you have better/more elite troops.

Tnh, hardly anybody plays PL1 unless they have a specific theme in mind....most find 2 and 3 to be the best balanced for cost against quality.NEVERMIND, I AM A WHINEY FAGGOT SO PLEASE IGNORE.

Coming to a similar realisation to what you've posted I pulled myself together, MANNED-UP and did some further analysis. My first force is 750pts exactly, and from there I've configured 1000pt, 2000pt and 2500pt forces for my CEF army. At the 2000pt mark I've started adding Caprician units but I'm going to go back and try and configure something around the 1500pt mark that starts to include them.

The first force is PL1, but the rest are PL2. They build in a progressive fashion, so that 750pts builds straight into 1000pts with a few extra units, and so on all the way up to 2500pts. I'm going to try and arrange a roughly 250pt progression cycle so I can gradually expand the force without feeling like there is a massive (financial) gulf between expansions. Tomorrow I'll see if I can squeeze a PL3 configuration in there.

THE SKIES OF THE COLONIES WILL TURN DARK WITH THE HULLS OF MY HOVERTANKS.

I'm only using LHT-67s and HT-68s as a) I really like the hulls more than the 71s and 72s and b) for fluff, these are either garrison patrols (PL1) or assigned to a Gallot Corporation detachment (PL2) and not a frontline force, therefore using less vital units.

EDIT: This was my 1337th post, CLEARLY A SIGN TO PROCEED WITH MY NEFARIOUS PLANS.

Me
January 14 2012, 03:31:50 PM
Damn. At a glance, I thought only the green bit had been spray painted, then I realised it'd be cleaned.
Been a while then?

Would have been approaching 10 years. It wasn't even the dustiest it just looked the worst with the contrast against the green paint.

tbh I had forgotten I even had a P-38 until I got it down from the shelf.

Kaianna
January 14 2012, 03:41:03 PM
Got tired using pencil, paper and calculator all morning to build a Heavy Gear Blitz! army, located and installed Gear Garage (http://dp9.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=241&Itemid=242) and have been tooling around in it all day instead of clearing out the junk in my room ~procrastination~

Sperging to myself about the cost of picking up Blitz! :
My passions were cooled slightly when I calculated that the basic PL1 force of CEF tanks I constructed will cost me at least another hundred dollars to purchase, and another hundred to fill out the three squads out over time. That doesn't include the necessary shipping to this thrice-cursed colony.

My force is configured as, essentially: two squads of Light Hover Tanks, 3 in one and two in the other (LHT-67 (http://store.dp9.com/product_info.php?products_id=541)) for my core units and a single HT-68 (http://store.dp9.com/product_info.php?products_id=41) as my veteran unit & army commander. To start with. I already have the HT-68 so I'm not counting the cost of that, to preserve my sanity...

Caprice only has one core unit available and those are infantry (http://store.dp9.com/product_info.php?products_id=438), and I'm no fan of the sculpts for them. I suppose I could mechanise them so I see them less, but that would be prohibitively expensive in practice. A CEF force can still take Caprician units onboard as I grow it, so I'll still have that option available to me later. The above force configuration has two slots free for auxiliary squads, but basic configurations for those would be about $65 per squad, $85 if I choose to make them heavier.

So ... I don't know. To flesh it out to where I want my core forces I'm looking at another $330 minimum, before shipping. That's a lot of money and I don't know if I'll be anywhere near anyone/groups who play, yet.

So I'm going to hold off from buying the north/south starter box until I've done some digging to see if there are any clubs within reasonable distance of me. At least I can avoid the possibility of getting hooked until I know whether I'll be able to feed my new habit.


I think this is being sensible about it!


Plus, I still have a small pile of WH40K that I haven't been able to paint yet and an even larger pile of 25/15mm sci-fi...


one thing i'll say, is that you don't have to do PL1. Unlike most games where the forces are dead equal, you can always pick anything between PL1 and 4, regardless of the enemy force. Generally higher PL is chaper money, as you have better/more elite troops.

Tnh, hardly anybody plays PL1 unless they have a specific theme in mind....most find 2 and 3 to be the best balanced for cost against quality.NEVERMIND, I AM A WHINEY FAGGOT SO PLEASE IGNORE.

Coming to a similar realisation to what you've posted I pulled myself together, MANNED-UP and did some further analysis. My first force is 750pts exactly, and from there I've configured 1000pt, 2000pt and 2500pt forces for my CEF army. At the 2000pt mark I've started adding Caprician units but I'm going to go back and try and configure something around the 1500pt mark that starts to include them.

The first force is PL1, but the rest are PL2. They build in a progressive fashion, so that 750pts builds straight into 1000pts with a few extra units, and so on all the way up to 2500pts. I'm going to try and arrange a roughly 250pt progression cycle so I can gradually expand the force without feeling like there is a massive (financial) gulf between expansions. Tomorrow I'll see if I can squeeze a PL3 configuration in there.

THE SKIES OF THE COLONIES WILL TURN DARK WITH THE HULLS OF MY HOVERTANKS.

I'm only using LHT-67s and HT-68s as a) I really like the hulls more than the 71s and 72s and b) for fluff, these are either garrison patrols (PL1) or assigned to a Gallot Corporation detachment (PL2) and not a frontline force, therefore using less vital units.

EDIT: This was my 1337th post, CLEARLY A SIGN TO PROCEED WITH MY NEFARIOUS PLANS.


Haha, awesome :D

I agree on the tank models, the 68's are much nicer. The HT-68 especially is just an amazing model, I love it.

What bit of the world are you in?